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Discussion Starter #1
I am running a Pitster X4 Motard on the street and the engine has the smaller diameter outer rotor setup that comes stock on most 160's these days. The charging system doesnt seem to keep the battery charged real well. I know it's working, but when my headlight is ON, it doesnt seem to make enough juice to also run the blinkers.



I have changed the battery, thinking my original battery was failing, but this one is doing it now also. Anyone else having problems with this?



It could be the voltage regulator, but I never had problems with my original engine that had the large flywheel setup on it.
 

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try switching the two wires that lead to the rectifier,, I have done this with good results, some are two yellows, some are white and yellow, some are pink and yellow.
 

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What size is the headlamp tail lamp and blinkers wattage combined. These small ORK are good to around 35 watts. I added an on off switch to my bike to turn the head lamp on and off so it could help when not in use to recharge the battery. Either go back to large flywheel or order a high out put Ricky Stator coil for it. You could also rewind the smaller ORK and most like get more winds per coil to get the out put up higher. I did it to a Lifan one and it really helped.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Blackwoodz said:
What size is the headlamp tail lamp and blinkers wattage combined. These small ORK are good to around 35 watts. I added an on off switch to my bike to turn the head lamp on and off so it could help when not in use to recharge the battery. Either go back to large flywheel or order a high out put Ricky Stator coil for it. You could also rewind the smaller ORK and most like get more winds per coil to get the out put up higher. I did it to a Lifan one and it really helped.


All stock stuff that came with the Motard Edition when it was brand-new (dont know the exact wattage, but the blinker bulbs look kind of like small halogen bulbs). The original engine had a larger flywheel, which was destroyed when it would not come off the crank during my first transmission failure/rebuild. I replaced it with the smaller outer rotor setup that comes stock on all the newer 150's and 160's.



I'll try switching the wires and see what happens. I will probably also replace all the blinkers with low wattage LED's.



Next question: has anyone installed LED blinkers on these, and has it messed with the blinker setup?
 

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The Chinese haven't got much on Lucas, as far as electrical output and reliability;) A lightened Honda flywheel and 90W Ricky Stator rewind will have you cooking lizards at 50 yards. The LED's may require a low-draw flasher to activate.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, tried the wire swap deal. Checked the voltage at the battery. At idle, I got 15v with no lights on. Turn the lights on, and it drops to 11.5v. Rev it a little, and it wont even hit 12.5v. Turn any blinkers ON, and it gets even more pathetic. Same results regardless of which pink/yellow wires are swapped or not.



Is there a difference in the street-legal ORK's in the Pitsters vs the offroad only models? It gives me every indication that the amperage is too low coming from the generator. Not really much there that could have "failed".
 

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I put a large external flywheel ignition on mine and blew out a 55 quartz bulb before I put a regulator on it (headlight on AC and the rest on DC).



Run your headlight on AC and you may have enough juice on the little flywheel.



Don
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, revisiting this thread here.



I have since switched all my blinkers to LED's and running some resistors near the rear signals to get the electronic flasher to operate correctly. Voltage drop with the LED's/resistors seems to be better off now.



I have also adapted a slightly larger Gell cell battery to the bike with a slightly higher capacity.



The headlight bulbs are pathetic 15w-each bulbs, so the draw on them really isnt dramatic like a 35/55w halogens that are standard on most bikes. I am looking into finding a HID or LED setup that will have a lot more light but keep the lower amp draw.



I would LOVE to run a bigger flywheel to get a lot more amps from, but I will soon be running a 184cc bigbore/V2/S35 cam, so I am very leery of the horror stories I have heard of cranks breaking when using the bigger flywheel. Is this the only other choice out there? Anyone have any specs on rewinding a smaller ORK for more output (wire guage, winds, etc)?



BTW, I noticed that Piranha has a new e-start system for these blocks. What does that system use for a generator?
 

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You may just have a weak stator , have you tried swapping it out for a new unit ?

The reason i say this is the stators will commonly make the bike run bad when weak as well

The Stators with 2 yellows are NOT grounded internally

The "off road" units we sell have NO aux output thus for dirt only NO lights

The new e-start 150cc was just unloaded so i have not had a chance to see the electrical system yet
 
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