fatcaaat said:It is possible but you won't like how you do it. You can either find yourself a dished piston, one with a lower deck, or swap the connecting rod.
Option 1 - Dished piston. I think this is the best solution there is. That way you get the best flame propogation instead of having the piston in the hole. Cheap too...if you can find a piston.
Option 2 - Lower Deck. A cheap solution but unlikely to find a lower deck without compromising the ring landing.
Option 3 Swap the rod/crank. Probably most expensive. Find a 57mm crank and swap the rod from a 53mm crank and you've essentially dropped the piston from deck into the hole 2mm. Then, adjust your base gasket to dial in the ratio how you want it.
firepower354 said:I'd go with the 'caaat's suggestion of a dished piston, with a decent quench area. Without static compression, the chamber gets lazy, and a decent quench area will excite things enough to keep from requiring a ton of ignition advance to have decent torque. You can even get away with a little more compression, compared to leaving the piston in the hole. There's also sinking the valves and re-unshrouding them, to gain chamber volume. Plenty of 4v engines have a short compression height and dished head, allowing added stroke, too. Just need to add a set of notches, at worst. I have one with a 70mm bore and moderate compression. Easy on kicker gears, and my junked ankle.
More info on the plan would be helpful, and ease my curiosity
firepower354 said:Aaaah. Turbo and EFI makes the quench issue a non-issue, pretty much. Lots easier to source a big flat top piston and leave it in the hole.
The only Z155's I've seen were holding up OK, besides the inherent design flaw of the wobble-basket. Ho's aren't any better, in that aspect.
They all have a wobbly basket,,YX,Z, HO etc, even the Daytonas,they have just a little less.MonsterMonkey said:Excellent news.
The wobble-basket issue: Is this the same clutch basket tolerance issues that were in the original 160's?
Please excuse my ignorance on these matters, we seemingly only get the latest stuff in the UK when it's a good-while-old
FrodoGT said:If your not going to use the cylinder or piston anyway..I would save yourself the 400 bucks and just go with a pitster 155HO. I believe the only difference would be the klx vs the honda head, but the klx would give you larger stud spacing and allow for a thicker cylinder at the bores you are considering.
eavery said:the klx style heads have a bigger stud pattern check out T-BOLTS tech section every thing u need to know is in there
MonsterMonkey said:What I'm trying to achieve is to turbocharge an engine for my Monkey bike.
I have a suitable fuel system, I've gone the Microsquirt ECU route and used some Honda parts for the throttle body, fuel pump etc - I have this mounted and running on a sacrificial engine, I have a wideband 02 sensor setup too - so no nasty carb jetting issues when it comes to tuning.
The Turbo is a Mitsubishi TD-02 sourced from States, originally destined for a Suzuki 660cc car, hence my quest for as many cubes as possible with a reasonably low compression ratio - to get it spinning.
I must stress I am not doing this to make a huge amount of power, more for the actual 'doing of it'