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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have a pretty good idea of how to wire a lifan motor... But I'm wondering why all of the diagrams show the lighting circuit being fed before the rectifier?

Wouldn't it make more sense to wire it after the rectifier/regulator with the battery circuit?

Is wiring the lighting circuit after the rectifier ok?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I should add I'm using a 4 pin regulator/rectifier
 

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The way Honda wired our bikes...there is basically 2 separate lighting circuits. One is AC, fed directly from the stator, and only powers the headlight and one or two speedo lights.

The other circuit goes thru a rectifier, then to the battery...charging, and lights everything other than the HL.

Your reg/rec is basically 2 different devices in one package. The HL circuit connects to the regulator part so you don't blow the HL bulb. The battery circuit connects to the rectifier part of the reg/rec to convert AC from the stator, to DC for charging the battery.

I think power HAS to pass thru the rectifier first...the go on to the battery and lights.

But the AC only needs to connect to the regulator, somewhere in the loop. It doesn't have to go THRU the regulator first. The regulator is more like a pressure release valve. It just dumps excess power at high revs when the voltage runs too high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
on my old ktm bike I rewired the stator for full DC...

Wondering if I can do that on the lifan?

I just never understood why the lighting circuit was separated from the DC circuit... Ending up with lights that flicker or are dim at idle
 

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If you want to go with this set up, a larger battery and higher output stator may be necessary. The reason it is set up like it is is to use the smallest stator and battery for weight/cost saving. If you are doing city riding where there are periods of idling and stopping, and using of signals, it will draw on the battery, and eventually run it down. Vintage Hondas have this problem, especially if you are doing most of your riding at night, or keeping lights on in the day. If you are mostly riding at speed, it will not be a problem. The one way to get around the problem might be to go to LED lighting that requires a lot less current.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok...

So I could try running just a battery but larger... What is "larger"? I have a 4l-bs 50cca battery in there now

I understand that all stators are not created equal... What would you guess the output for the DC side (rectified) to be in amps on an older lifan 70cc with electric start?

Maybe I should just try it and see what happens... I made my own harness so it's just a matter of switching one wire from my lighting circuit.


Thought's?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I re-wired my new 125cc lifan to all DC on the 12v CT70 bike. Using this type regulator: https://www.ebay.com/itm/13130528446 Led bulbs on HL and rear light, regular turns and horn. You can be good with a 3 -4 ah 12v battery. In my case I builded my own LIFEpo4 3ah battery.
Good luck.

Did the regulator plug in the lifan harness?

The one that came with my 70cc and my piranha 140 use the one I linked to above...

Just wondering if the regulator you linked to is different/better or something
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok thanks!

The thing I've read in some posts is that the DC output of the regulator isn't very much... Meaning it doesn't put out much amps and having several lights may drain the battery...

But LEDs may fix that
 

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btw, what bike you have?
This is not plug and play, you have to cut cables and re connect stuff.
The output power will be based 90% on the type of battery you use, the regulator simply is going to keep the battery charged typical 2h -6ah battery.
STATOR---------Regulator

WHITE ------------PINK
YELLOW-----------YELLOW
GREEN to Ground
RED to all DC power and battery connect to the original red for stop lights and accessories.

For the actual lights, Its important to know that if you are going to use the original light switch on the ignition key second position, you have to connect this DC new red also to the (C2) yellow of the ignition switch, be sure this yellow is not touching anything else (originally was connected to the stator).

good luck and keep me posted. Always use a fuse 5-10ah for the battery.
attached few shots.
DP
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have 5 bikes... Lol...

Right now I have a 77 with a lifan 70cc electric start with a homemade wiring harness... A 79 with a lifan 125cc kick start that came with a wiring harness of sorts, this one will have just a headlight... And an 84 that will have a piranha 140 electric start and again my own harness... Then a 77 frame that will get moded for a gorilla tank and a yet to be determined motor... Thinking another piranha motor but bigger... And lastly another 77 that will be a mostly stock build with an 88cc race head honda motor... I may do a stroker crank but at this point I just have the 88cc kit no crank.

I'm just trying to decide if I want to float the ground, run ac, or just run LEDs off the DC circuit...

Thanks for the write up... I appreciate it
 

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Five bikes? It can be not easy to deal with one, and you complicate your task by five times, lol. I recently saw a great setup for LED lighting on a different model bike and wished I had five of them. Finding a working lighting scheme is rare luck because each model has its requirements. I didn't want to re-engineer the bike into some hybrid just because I wanted to see a red light from under the wheels. I should probably give up on the idea of making my bike glowing like a multi-colored Vont light bulb.
 
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