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The Elka shock for the L arrived today. Here is my review after installing and track testing:

Background: For a review of how we arrived at this shock see the following thread: http://planetminis.com/forums/klx11...-shock-l-model-starts-here-want-one-read.html

For ordering the shock, either go to ishock website or Call or email Darren at Ishock: 760-366-3640 [email protected]

On to the review:

Bike: 2010 KLX110 L Full Mod with stock/hoop style Foes Racing +3 swingarm and KX65 front forks, and I removed a Racetech shock for the L I have been running for three seasons (up to this point, the best known shock and the only one built for the L. The racetech shock has performed well, but with an MSRP of around 600 bucks and no adjustment other than spring preload - no one has one to my knowledge other than me - (to be honest klxracer#2 found it on ebay for me and I got it cheap, that's only reason I have it). Note: this shock (Elka) will work on completely stock swinger.

Situation: When I ordered the shock I gave my height, weight, riding skill level and the fact I am running a +3 swingarm to Darren at ishock.

Review: Shock arrived with instructions, tools (except allen for spring pre load collar set screw - find one that fits and set it aside, You will not have room to "see if you have the right allen wrench" later if you need to adjust the spring preload collar - more to come on that). The shock was fully setup to Elka's settings based on my input. I mounted the shock and immediately noticed it felt a little stiff. I checked the race sag and it was about 1/2in less than it should be. Rebound felt a little fast for me as well. I rode five laps anyway. I was right, some adjustment necessary. From the box I made the following changes: Spring preload backed off (counter clockwise) four turns, and fast/slow rebound screw turned four clicks slower (counter clockwise). Once these changes were made the shock felt AWESOME! The bike certainly soaks up the normal stuff (landings, whoops) better than any other shock I've used. You will be able to tell the shock is truly a progressive shock and that something is "doing some work for you" while you are riding. Three reasons why I say this: 1. The preload setting I ended up with is rather soft, yet by "progressive" I mean the shock still does not bottom out, it gets harder as the action against it gets harder, yet feels soft under light riding. 2. The bike CORNERS FAR BETTER than before, this tells me the shock is allowing the suspension to keep the rear tire on the ground/allow weight to go where I need it to. 3. I installed a new chain early this season and I have long stretched it into position with many rides. After pulling the Racetech and installing the elka my chain is now stretched again, and it hasn't stretched in 10 rides. This tells me the swingarm itself is moving farther up (towards the rear fender) than it ever was with the old shock. I view this as a major sign I am now riding with a shock that is using full suspension travel (rather than a springy pogo stick under you) and by the drastic difference in cornering ability; the shock is now working to keep the back tire on the ground without springing back so fast it bounces you where you don't want to go. The shock is literally so much different that after about ten laps of riding with my final settings...I did a gate drop and ran ten more laps as hard as I could because I now felt comfortable with it....My lines on the track I normally took literally changed because the bike hooks up so well in the corners. I am now exiting a corner so much faster than before I was all messed up in track position on exit , I had to adjust my corner entry point in anticipation for being able to go through the corner so much faster. It's going to take some getting used to but my point is the shock is so much different I am going to have to relearn/rethink the way I ride on a track that I designed!!

The only item to note so far: This shock utilizes a collar for spring preload that is locked in place via a set screw. PAY ATTENTION TO THIS. I did not when I mounted the shock. When I went back to adjust my preload...I was unable to get an Allen wrench on the set screw because it was under the battery box. I had to re disconnect the lower eyebolt to lower the shock to get to the set screw. In order to remedy this for the future - I ended my collar adjustment with the set screw in a position where I can get to it next time without disconnecting the shock. My suggestion to you: When you install the shock...do so with the collar set screw loose. After you mount the shock, position the collar to where you can get to the set screw, then tighten it down. Safe yourself some grief. Also - a tip from Koby - always make sure this set screw is tight - if you ride with it loose you run the risk of ruining the shock body.

My overall thoughts: At the full list price on ishocks website (I can't remember - It's 400 and change base price) this is by far the #1 performing/true performance shock available today for the KLX110L equipped w a stock or extended hoop style swingarm. I have ran on this bike: a Fox Float (300 and change MSRP), Racetech for the L (around 600 base price), and a DNM (150 bucks but feels like 150 dollar shock)....after running all of these shocks and now, I believe, being the first person to mount one of these to an L....This is the shock to have for a 110L. Let Darren know your information, have Elka build the shock for you and off you go.

It's been a long haul getting this shock from a request on this site to a reality. It paid off - the go to shock for the L is here folks! This shock will work for your stocker, and then carry on in usefulness through your upgrades to full mod - and it's cost effective enough that I truly believe many of these things will sell for sure!! Special thanks to Darren at ishock, Gruvey, klxracer#2 and PM members for their input.

Here are some photos. One is a comparison of the stock, racetech and Elka all in line. Both racetech and Elka are maybe a few mm if that longer than the stock L shock, but will not be noticeable just by virtue of how this shock works. Another is just the shock and the other is of how I ended up positioning the set screw, and this is where I suggest putting it when you install your shock so you can get to it if needed.



 
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Awesome write up and thanks for the tips. Hopefully mine get here today as you now have me even more excited than I already was.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yep, get that thing on and dialed in. Next time I whoop up on you I don't wanta here "but you got the Elka" as your excuse. ;-)

See, now that this shock ordeal is over, we can go back to jacking with one another and riding!
 

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post up some pictures! Glad it worked out great for you
 

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Yep, get that thing on and dialed in. Next time I whoop up on you I don't wanta here "but you got the Elka" as your excuse. ;-) See, now that this shock ordeal is over, we can go back to jacking with one another and riding!
I guess my shock won't be completed until the 13th, they had to order a special spring (probably one more suited for my senior citizen style of riding).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
COMPARE.jpg REAR.jpg SIDE.jpg For some reason my photos I added last night are only showing if your using an smart phone. Here they are as normal attachments... The first photo shows the new L Elka in comparison to stock and the racetech. The second photo shows something that may interest some folks: If you are running a yosh RS2 pipe, you may have to shim your rear exhaust mount outward from the bike using spacers and/or washers. Because I was running the racetech (and its a large diameter shock like this Elka) I had already done this. BUT - If you have been running an RS2 with a skinnier shock, you may find yourself moving the rear exhaust can out some to get this Fat diameter Elka (because of internal resi) to not hit your fat diameter RS2. The last photo is how I ended my collar adjustment so I can get to the set screw again.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Keep in mind, when Elka developed this they likely used a 110L with a stock pipe. Once you add the big pipe and the large shock, some people will have to make adjustments to rear pipe mount. Not a big deal - HOWEVER - I forgot to mention something...When I moved my rear exhaust can mount outward to accommodate the shock not hitting the pipe - it weakened the rear shock mount tab on the frame and it ended up breaking. I had to have my dad weld it back together. I made a support mount for it so this does not happen again. This was all with the racetech (that also has internal resi and large diameter) BUT - I am thinking as more people buy this Elka and run the RS2...they will meet the same problem once they move the rear of the exhaust outward. I will get a picture of the little support I made. No problems since - and it will save people from having to weld on the frame......
 

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Shock mount tab? Do you mean exhaust mount tab? They do break easily using a shimmed RS2, I have welded support on mine too.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yes, exhaust mount tab, sorry.
 
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