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500 budget build:

protaper xr50 bend bars or klx bend-65

BBR long front brake cable-18

TwoBros tall seat-100

tires of your choice-70

folding shifter-20/30

Front and rear springs-150

over the top brake pedal- 70



that is right around 500 bucks and will make ur 110 more adult friendly.



you could buy used parts and get more for your money.
 

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i recently bought a 09 klx 110 and put stiffer front and rear springs,should i buy a 150+$ triple clamp or just taller bars? and if so any recomendations on brands?i also am having some carb issues the bike started bogging when i get on it ,this happens in all gears and nutral if i snap the throttle it dies? someone told me to adjust the air screw but all i can find is a d shaped looking thing and thats right next to the idle screw,im lost the only other screw is the one to drain the bowl,any help on this would be awsome thanks!!!
 

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The D shaped thing is the air screw. You probably want to unscrew it, put a slot in it with a real thin hack saw blade, and screw it back in. That way you can get to it with a regular screw driver.



About the bogging. Take the carb off and clean it real good with carb clean. Then drain your tank and put fresh gas in it.
 

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thanks ill try that ,i dont know how much it will help cause ive only had two tanks in it and ive ran premium,used a brand new gas can,cause ive been told that even the slightest amount of dirt can clog things,any advice on adjusting the air screw,ill take it out and put a slot in it then what?:confused:
 

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69z72r said:
500 budget build:

protaper xr50 bend bars or klx bend-65

BBR long front brake cable-18

TwoBros tall seat-100

tires of your choice-70

folding shifter-20/30

Front and rear springs-150

over the top brake pedal- 70



that is right around 500 bucks and will make ur 110 more adult friendly.



you could buy used parts and get more for your money.


What OTT brake pedal can you buy for 70 bux i see them all for 100+?
 

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KLX110 Swingarms...

I've been researching swingarm alternatives, so I put together a list (below) to sort these out.

I'm mainly focusing on 8" travel suspensions, and mostly on MX style, though I added a few hoop style swingarms.



One thing I dont have is facts on the build quality and ride. (I really could use some input in this area.)



I'm not trying to pit one product against another, I just want to figure out what the alternatives are and the cost. The prices come from various planetminis advertisers, and other sites i've come across.

Some of these might not be a viable option (e.g. pitster style swingarm will likely require a new hub/wheel adding to the cost) - see notes column.









Comments, suggestions, additions are welcomed.



jeff
 

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Hello guys!



i finally had the chance to ride my '02 KLX!

springs in fork and shock

134 kamikaze head carb piston cilider

hydro clutch fully manual not yer primary drive gear

still stock exaust...



i'm very impressed on power of this kit

but the question is



14-37 seem to be too long to ride dirt track...

what kind of gear ratio do you guys have on a stock mission plus 4th gear?



does KX60-65-0r85 sprockets front and rear fit KLX?
 

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coolaaaa said:
what's the best way(and is it even worth the trouble) to remove the "bulkhead"in the muffler can? Anybody got a cheap aftermarket exh for sale that is not currently listed? (under $100)


Use a "hole saw" on a drill to remove the bulkhead.(hole saw has a hex shank, so you can use some adapters and an extension to get deep enough.) This is a cylinder with teeth and a pilot drill in the center. You can get one that just fits into the can, and it makes it easy. Put some oil on the saw.



Also, you can cannibalize an aluminum scooter down tube to make a "packed" muffler can. You need to find one that has a larger diameter on the bottom than the top. These are heavy aluminum, so easy to drill. Drill rows of holes one end to another, all the way around the tube. Drill small holes around the small exhaust tip in the center of the cap. Use a hammer and bang on the tip , until it breaks free of the cap.(remove it from cap) Cut off spark arrestor from stock cap, just behind the ring that held the screen on. (leave a stub on the back of the cap). Slip tube into can fitting it over the header pipe. Mark and cut tube so that the end will just pass the tube on the back of the stock cap. Using a bench grinder, taper the aluminum tube so that it just fits into the tube on the back of the stock cap. Stock cap needs to securely hold the end of that aluminum tube. (you don't want it to blow out the back, do you?) Next, wrap the drilled tube with some 4 stroke packing, secure with masking or duct tape. Shove it all back into the can, making sure to line up the aluminum tube over the header pipe within.( it won't go all the way in unless you do.) Bolt the cap back on and Presto! Big Bore sound, tin sound gone, and it only cost you your scooter! I did this to ours and the urge to spend $150 or alot more on a new exhaust is now gone. Performance gained is noticeable. You also should open up the header pipe where it meets the head. I used a "stepped" drill bit for this and it took a while, but was very easy.
 
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