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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A while back I set out to bore my Z50 engine cases, using a router. I wanted a set up to use for my own projects. It ended up working out pretty well. It also got me interested in making some YouTube videos of some of my projects. So there may be more of these to come. I'm a little awkward, but hopefully I'll get better.

So please check out my video of how to bore engine cases, carpenter style.


 

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I remember you brain storming creative ways to bore cases. Nicely done. The end product looks great! The video was well done to boot. Cheers to you.

What did the specs on the bit end up being?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I remember you brain storming creative ways to bore cases. Nicely done. The end product looks great! The video was well done to boot. Cheers to you.

What did the specs on the bit end up being?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Thank you.
The first bit I used, first time I did this, was ½" diameter, with a 1" long cutter, and ⅞" long shank. The shank on that bit was a little too short for my liking.
The bit I used in the vid was the same, but the shank is about 1⅛" long, and it was better.
The bit is called a pattern bit, it has the bearing BETWEEN the cutter and the shank...you want to be sure not to mistakenly get a "flush trimming bit" which has the bearing on the end of the bit...won't work.

½" diameter works pretty good, but bigger would be ok too. The bigger the bit, the harder it will be to control the router when cutting hard material like aluminum.
The 1" long cutter is important too. Much longer or shorter, and it will...cause problems.

 

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Good idea, end product looks great and nice video. Keep them coming. :D
 

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Nicely done Kirby! It looks like it works very well. Is that going to be a stroker build? At work we cut a lot of aluminum and use Pam cooking spray as lubricant on the mateal and blades. It’s much less expensive than other lubricants & you can still cook with it.


Id like to try this sometime in the future. The 95cc cylinder seems better than just an 88cc kit, I want to try it now!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks SEAHAWKS! I'm kinda proud of that project. It worked out well. Please be careful if you do try it. And let me know if I can help, with questions etc.

My cases will be used to build a 125cc engine for a CT70. I also have a 114cc in the works.
 

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I’d like to hear some feedback on these builds compared to a piranha 140. For the price of the stroker parts & time involved in the build.... is it really worth the $500+ cost on the Honda stuff?

Many engines are cheaper than buying even an 88cc kit with carb. I’d like to try a 95cc kit without a stroker crank just because there not that expensive. Will a Lifan 125 crank and flywheel bolt right in the Honda cases? Either way I think the case boring Idea is awesome! I’d like to bore my Tri z 250 case for a 350 kit sometime soon, this would work just the same on other cases.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
$400 for 140cc is crazy cheap to me. I'd think that would be a no brainer if you're just lookin to go fast. I think Honda lower ends are better quality, which translates to smoother shifts, less vibration, fewer failures, and longer life. But you gotta build them with quality parts.
I've never owned a Chinese engine, or even ridden one, so my opinion might mean nothing. All I know is what I've read, over some years. I AM, a loyal Honda guy.
$1000 for 190cc (Daytona), with a good reputation...dirt cheap. I expect to put a minimum of $1000 into any stroker motor, up to about $1500 + my labor. And sometimes my labor isn't that good. But that's half of the fun/challenge...braggin rights.

For my 124cc build, the crank shaft cost $400, another 350 for the head, 200 or so for the cylinder kit, plus the core engine/transmission, plus...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Once that awesome 1000-$1500 engine is built, you gotta add a carburetor, air filter, and exhaust. Then you need to protect your investment with a oil cooler. Then you gotta protect you own azz with suspension, braking, and lighting, that's on par with 3 times the power, and double the speed.
 

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Thanks SEAHAWKS! I'm kinda proud of that project. It worked out well. Please be careful if you do try it. And let me know if I can help, with questions etc.

My cases will be used to build a 125cc engine for a CT70. I also have a 114cc in the works.

Where did you get your crank from for the 125 build? I’ve been looking at webike lately, they have some good pkg deals. I want to try one of them on one of my trx 70 cases sometime down the road.


https://japan.webike.net/products/23439338.html


https://japan.webike.net/products/9658836.html


https://japan.webike.net/products/23092331.html


https://japan.webike.net/products/9658838.html

https://japan.webike.net/products/22803747.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have a Takegawa 54mm crank that I bought from a PM user, along with a cylinder. It's new stuff, but 2nd hand.
Pretty much all of the 54mm cranks are 12v. So you'll need to use a 12v stator. BUT, DRATV has a 54mm crank that's made to be used with a CT70H type stator and flywheel, and it's cheap. So that could be a possibility. If you have the correct stator and flywheel, you could build a 6v 124cc engine.

54mm_STROKER CRANK_FOR_POINTS ENGINES_WITH_69MM TALL_CYLINDERS (MUST_USE_HAND_CLUTCH) FLYWHEEL AND STATOR (200157)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks guys!
And thanks for letting me know that you tried it. That makes me happy for sure.
When I first mentioned I was going to try the router, over on lilHonda, some of my friends were...skeptical, lol. So I was really pleased with how well it worked.
 
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