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Discussion Starter #121
If I wasn't committed to this absolute unit of a headlight, I would. I have a Z I'm about to make from the frame up, maybe that's what I'll do.
 

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Discussion Starter #123
I'm not buying that tank unless someone wants it, way too much. I'm not sure if you coincidently mentioned that tank or connected the dots between my FB and my account here but hello!

I just bought a '93 Z50R frame and I think I'm jus going to do something for myself instead of restoring it. I might do an all black bike with a retro vibe? Not sure yet but keep an eye out for that build post :p
 

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Discussion Starter #125 (Edited)
From bench to bike. I'm not having a great time but I'm starting to get it. I'm having an issue where my right side blinkers (F/R) work but left isn't the way I have it wired, which doesn't make sense because it's exactly the same as the right side. The battery dipped from 12.8V to 12.4V through testing today, not sure if that's part of the issue but I just tossed it on the charger.

Edit- left side wasn't working because of a bad crimp on a connector, so that's fixed...but I can't figure out how to stop my headlights from blinking with my blinkers! I'm running an LED relay to make the front blinkers blink (rears do automatically with power). I can't figure out how to isolate power to the just the headlight wires without it blinking.

I think my biggest hurdle moving forward is that I'm currently running two different looms: one for the engine and one for the wiring off the battery. I believe what I need to do is just connect them via whatever wires are needed for keeping the battery charged, which is the stator wires (blue/white?) Worst case, I run two separate looms and charge the battery after rides...

274755


274756
 

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Discussion Starter #126 (Edited)
Well, one step forward and two back. My LED relay is making me blow my 15A fuse as soon as I turn on the power.

I have black to chassis ground and red is powered by 12v switched power, then I'm running from the relay back to the main blinker switch. It was working earlier, not sure what changed. EVERYTHING else works (minus the brake lights, haven't gotten that far) but if I don't want a solid turn signal I have to run this relay.

EDIT - Black isn't a GROUND. Red is 12v and black goes to the switch. facepalm no more blown fuses, things work!

274779
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Okay, things are progressing nicely. Got everything soft wired and started to hard wire. Biggest take away from this is don't crimp your connectors until you're positive you wont need to change it. I had to cut and recrimp a few things throughout the process but not a huge deal. It's super tedious but feels great to see things come together. The one set back is the speedo didn't come with male 9 pin connector plugs, so I had to buy another kit just to get half a plug. Not the end of the world but just annoying.

Still need to figure out what I need to do to join my two harnesses, stay tuned to see if things catch on fire!

 

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Oh gosh. I can remember wiring and requiring them troubleshooting and wiring again on my ct70. Wiring is a dredge that’s for sure. Probably the most rewarding thing next to firing a bike up for the first time, tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
You guys are due for another update! It runs (not great) but it actually idles now. I believe I have some air leaks, my spacer situation isn't idle for the intake on the carb side. In order to get the carb to fit with the Tusk A/F screw I had to double space it and still BARELY clears, totally worth it because that A/F screw saves so much time. When I hit the throttle it kind of hangs before the RPM's come down, so I'm guessing it's a leak somewhere.

THE EXHAUST IS REALLY LOUD. So I'm either going to get something else or use this straight pipe as a header, I have that Yosh TRS but it's pretty beat up and ugly. I was thinking about this spiral out the front exhaust, I think it'll look great.

Please ignore how wonky my front strut is, it is still a work in progress.

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274836



 

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Just today read a fb post online that with that type exhaust you will not get your carb setup right. (Too short and no back pressure whatsoever)

ps.That headlight looks HUGE!
 

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Discussion Starter #131
Just today read a fb post online that with that type exhaust you will not get your carb setup right. (Too short and no back pressure whatsoever)

ps.That headlight looks HUGE!
I can't see the post, could you please take a screenshot? Are you referring to my straight pipe or the out the front? Should I just weld a can on the straight pipe?

The headlight IS HUEMANGOUS
274850
 

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Discussion Starter #136
Sometimes you just get really lucky. While brain storming how I was going to mount my oil cooler, I took a look around at what I had and would you believe it, the mount for the OEM horn is 100% a perfect fit. I didn't have to change a thing.

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274874
 

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Soooo.... does that mean that the oil cooler now makes a beeping sound when you hit the horn button??... :rolleyes:


...askin' for a friend
 

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Discussion Starter #138
Man I wish! For some reason the only button that doesn't work (or I'm not doing it right) is my horn button. I have two Hella Supertones (popular in the Subaru community for how loud they are) and I couldn't get either to work. Not a huge deal right now, I'll address it later. I need to get a better exhaust and cut a chain!
 

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Discussion Starter #139
I need some help with this front brake cable guys
274920


I cut away some bits and pieces to free up some more slack and I'm at the point I can't modify it further. I'm still coming up short. My next option is to pull the front brake arm spring and then try to adjust it to fit but I have literally no pull, so not sure that'll work. My adjuster on my level is all the way in, tried that. I don't want to go blindly buying a bunch of cables and hoping for the best, so does anyone know what I should do here?
 

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Pick up a 6" piece of 6mm threaded rod and a 1/4" coupler that you'll have to use a tap to rethread it for the 6mm rod. Thread the rod halfway into the coupler and then determine where to cut the threaded end of the cable so the coupler threads halfway onto it, install it and cut the end of the threaded rod to length to fit.
 
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