PlanetMinis Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all! Haven't done much with 110's since 2009 when I switched my game up to the bigger minis. I've had this old girl sitting in the basement since. This bike was once a regular Vet Class racer on all the cool tracks here in NE Ohio in the glory days ('03-'09) of pit bike racing. She's been through alot of changes over the years, but she's back to a stocker now. When I was finished racing her- I didn't have the heart to sell her off. My then GF used to ride her here and there before she had the gas drained- and was moved to a corner of the basement. I've been meaning to get around to freshening her up, but the funds and time were never there. I'm selling some bikes off, and finishing up the projects that have been on the list.

So here's what we got. 2003 DRZ110. Motor is showroom stock, but it came apart years ago, and the OEM 4th gear shift drum was installed. So that's out of the way. The auto clutch was boxed up, and she has a hydro clutch and Tak primary gear. Since this bike will be run on backyard tracks, around the pits with a cold drink in hand, and a spare bike for my idiot non riding friends, and future GFs? I'm going back to the auto clutch. The stock pipe with the restrictor drilled out will stay in place. Only performance mod is a 20mm KLX140 carb, jetted at 40/80. The 140 carb is a direct bolt on, but you have to run the 110 float bowl and choke cable. It's not going to blow your hair back, but it seems to help with throttle response and adds a little torque across the board. Motor runs perfectly well, so basically it's getting an oil change and that's it.

Basically I'm powdering the frame, getting new rubber- she's already rolling on Excels, sourcing a plush shock, and getting new plastic and graphics. She already has tapered steering bearings, and I'm going to get some roller swingarm pivot bearings installed when the swinger gets back from powdercoat. The forks already have TB damping rods which have tighter valving than stock. I like it plush, so I'm running just the rods and the stock springs. I'll post updates in the comments.
271829
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
That was years ago. Haven't had that pedal in a decade. I'm going to run some sort of OTT, nothing super expensive like a BBR or anything though. --L*64
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
So I got a little work done today. Now, there'll likely be a bunch of goons riding this bike, so I figured I should make it as idiot proof as possible. I'm shelving the frame I have the title for, and running a spare Ebay frame that I had laying around from an old build that didn't happen. That way I'll still have the bike even if somebody rides it off a cliff. One problem I've had over the years is the lower side panel mounts bending in the event of a crash. They're made of flimsy stamped metal. When you spend $200 on a good powdercoat job, the last thing you want to do is bend a tab, and have the PC flake or peel.

My solution? Have those tabs cut off and replaced with solid stainless stock! Not an easy job to get right due to the angles, but I have a master metal fabricator on hand. He chopped the paper thin ones, fabbed up solid pieces, and welded them up. They work perfect! Helluva lot more durable too. Swinger is on deck. --L*64
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Nice, I have had the same quarantine boredom. Bought a performance cdi unit for the ttr110 and spent a ton of money to restore my old 86 z50.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Got the swinger ready for powdercoat. It got a couple of welds in the shock mount area, mostly to keep crud out of there causing the powder to chip. Shaved the chain guard mounts for vanity, then added a weld to the back of the chain guide mount for a little extra strength. Blasted the stock paint off. I'm not going to send it out for powdercoat just yet, because I want to get the shock first to be certain that it won't need anything adjusted. --L*64
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well. Until I can get a shock? I'm dead in the water. I was planning on a Works/Worx Gasser. Problem is that last time I got one- they were $289- very reasonable. When I called there the other day? They want $409, and the spring they use covers 60 lbs of rider weight?? They said I could order my own spring from Cannon Racecraft or whatever, and they would valve it to that rate, but a custom spring from Cannon has to be $129! The guy at Worx said that if I supply a spring/ he'd take $50 off the shock. Soooo- now we're talking almost $500? Absolutely not. So for now, it's looking like an Elka. Its a great shock and $429. One thing I do like about the Worx, is that it's a steel body, and it comes with a 10.25 eye to eye length. According to my data, that's the optimum ride height for cornering. Anything more than that makes the bike handle weird. I'll talk to the rep at Elka and see what they say. -L*64
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Well, went round the block with shocks this week, and I learned that Elka can and will tailor the length of your shock to your needs at no extra charge!! Soooo- I ordered up a Stage 2 with a custom length of 260mm. My data tells me that optimum handling for a Gen 1 KLX is with a 260mm shock. My shock budget was $400, and I'm right there at $399. The bad news is that it won't likely be here til mid June. That'll give me time to get the frame and swinger powdered. --L*64
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
While I'm waiting for my shock to get here? Going to pull the hydro clutch and Tak primary gear out of the motor, and reinstall the stock auto clutch setup. I was thinking about doing a piston and rings while the engine is out, but in stock form? They can last almost forever. The Thai scooter that the KLX engine came from? They regularly go 12K miles without a rebuild. This motor doesn't have a ton of hours on her, so aside from the auto clutch? It's getting an oil change, and that's it. The frame, swinger, and a few other parts will be headed to powder coat next week. She hit the work stand yesterday- pile of parts today! --L*64
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Wicked man love it :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Well, took my motor back to auto clutch because I don't ride my 110 a ton, and I wanted it to be easy to ride for non/barely riding friends and my GFs. The motor didn't need anything else but an oil change- that's the beauty of stock- so it's sitting back on the stand waiting for the frame and swinger to get back from powder coat, and the Elka shock to arrive. --L*64
272329
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Hey All! Good and bad news today! My Elka arrived-- that's the good news... The bad? When I busted it out of the box to give it the look over? I got out the tape measure as well. I originally wanted the shock 10.50 inches eye to eye. Then all the testing sessions from 2007 came to mind. According to my data, the handling on a Gen I KLX is optimal with a (260mm/10.25 in. eye to eye) shock. So the next day I called back and changed the length to the 260mm length. Wouldn't you know that it came in at 10.50 inches? Damn!! I'm going to have to send it back and have them build me a shock at the 10.25 inch length. Sucks! I guess I'll get the graphics ordered up while I'm waiting for the shock. About to drop the frame and swinger off at powdercoat too. --L*64
272568
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,967 Posts
I bring this testing up in conversation with KLX110L owners, I remember when you originally posted it. Very good info there!

Also great looking shock!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Yep- These Elka's sure do look solid. The finish seems well thought out. If it performs as well as it looks, should be $400 well spent. As an elder statesman- the shock on a 110 makes or breaks the build. The bike is somewhat cramped for an adult, let alone an older adult. If the shock is harsh, and it doesn't do it's job? The bike will sit unridden. Many believe the shock just needs to not bottom, and it's done its' job. I like a plush ride, and that isn't easy to do with 4-5 inches of travel available.

About the length/ride height. Back around 2007, I was talking to the guys at Fast50's about putting a package together with their + 2" chromoly swingarm, and a Works Performance shock. One that would provide 7-8 inches of travel, and would work as well as a high dollar rear end at half the price. We wanted to take the guesswork out of what length to get... what spring rate to order, etc. I weigh 150lbs, so we used that as a baseline. Works Performance was in cooperation, and they sent me three shocks to try. A 10.25, 10.50, and a 10.75 incher, We spent about 4 hours testing with the Fast50's swinger. When we were done testing with the aftermarket swinger, we bolted the shocks up to the stocker. We all took notes, but didn't share the data until the end of the test. All three of us picked the 10.25 shock on the stocker as the most precise for handling, and steering. Glad you found some value in that data. We ran the forks at + .25 to + .50 from stock. --L*64
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Well, it's been three weeks, and the Elka shock that they sent me at the 10.50 inch eye to eye length is now back to me at the requested 10.25 (260mm) eye to eye length as requested. It may not look like it in the pic I posted, but it's exact.

Meanwhile. I ran into another snafu. If you've read about the whole build (or re build) then you know I started with a random frame I had sitting around. I shelved the original frame that I have the title for, and I had my metal fab guy do some mods in the known problem areas. Before I sent it for powder, I wanted to drill the hole for the BBR chain roller I'll be running. I used the supplied template, but the bit must have slightly walked during the drilling process. I wasn't happy with where the hole ended up, so I had my fabricator weld and grind/shape the hole I drilled, then redrill it in the perfect location. The chain roller sits in the ideal spot now.

So the frame, swinger, and a few other parts are headed to powder coat tomorrow. When they come back, I'll start the reassembly. I still have to order graphics, then deal with roller swing arm bearings, and figure out an OTT rear brake pedal. I'll keep you posted on what I get. I'm thinking the Sikk 110's right now. Chime in and let me know what rear pedal you guys have on your bikes.

Building a quality mini isn't much different than building a full sized bike. Attention to details, and making sure that the mods you do actually work better than stock are the name of the game. I'll post up when the parts come back from powder coat. --L*64
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,231 Posts
I run the SIK110's pedal on my bike. I modified it with a Kinetic brake pedal tip (Which haven't been released yet as they're being used for a different project) because unlike the two bros or JTI pedals...they bent back as opposed to snap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Got my frame, swinger, torque arm, and BBR peg mount back from powder coat the other day. Came out looking really nice. You can even read the VIN. I used a local outfit that's notorious for solid work and super durable powder jobs. They do a bunch of high end vintage restorations. Happy with their work so far. I have to get the tapered bearing races pressed into the head stem on the frame, and the roller bearings pressed into the swinger- then I can start the reassembly process. Got a black TBR rear brake pedal as well.

Bear in mind that I don't build show pieces with PC'ed hubs, candy colors, dress up kits, etc. I use OEM colors, and I only address the items that yield benefits for an adult to ride the bike. I'll post the progress as well as an itemized build sheet when she's back together. --L*64
272873
272874
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top