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Is it a 5-pin CDI, like a typical Chinese CDI would have?

It looks like one of the mounting points for the pulse trigger broke off from the stator plate, does it have only one bolt holding it in place?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Is it a 5-pin CDI, like a typical Chinese CDI would have?

It looks like one of the mounting points for the pulse trigger broke off from the stator plate, does it have only one bolt holding it in place?
Tim and I spoke offline and I answered this question - Yes, it's the Chinese 5 pin layout. So those looking for a CDI could use this - TB MX Performance CDI - All Models - Red - TBparts.com or if you have a CDI already, you can just buy the harness TRC CDI Wire Harness Honda to 5 Pin China - TRC-1995 - Electrical - Pit Bike Engine Parts - TBolt USA, LLC.

Yes, nothing escapes your eagle eyes. It seems when the chain grenades it took out the trigger mount on the stator plate, luckily I have spare motors laying around.

In other news, it runs! Albeit like crap. As Tim pointed out, the fact the pulse trigger is probably not mount correctly isn't helping. I also have oil pushing past the plug and it feels like some pretty low compression.

Side note, worst bike to kick over I've ever had. The foot peg is in a terrible spot (owe my shin!) and the exhaust has this weird spring loaded piece on it that my heel hits.

DUMB.
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Booo. Also note the liberal use of HONDABOND seeping from between the head and cylinder..

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Figured it out after some Googling.

In short; when switching from incandescent to LED, there can be an issue if you can a turn signal indicator in your speedo. It's supposed to act as a ground path but there isn't enough resistance to make it work. So there are two solutions:
  1. Adding a diode Diode for 4-Way Blink Fix
    1. Rectangle Product Handwriting Slope Font
  2. Add load resistors Load Equalizers for LED blinker signals on Motorcycles


So, that's great. My question now becomes, what is the easiest solution given my problem. Based off the above sketch in comparison to my wiring diagram, I have one wiring (+) and one negative going into my gauge cluster turn bulb. This differs from the sketch, so can I add the one diode or will I need to split the wires coming in? Maybe adding just the 2W load resistor will work? But where do I add it? There is no diagram.

I hate wiring.
 

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I had the same issue with signals when I built up my CRF150 dual sport street legal. I added in diodes on both lines and it solved the problem.
 

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Your TS indicator light gets grounded thru the bulb base. The 2 wires that run to it are the light blue, and orange...R&L signal + wires. Looks like you can put the diodes into those wires...probably can do it right there in the HL bucket..?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Kirrbby you're right, I miss read the diagram. I'm going the diode route.

I played musical engines last night and salvaged some parts!

I'm guessing when the chain exploded and rocked the ignition cover, it did a number here too. Broke off one of the mounting arms for the pulse trigger off the stator plate, which I thought, "cool, I'll replace that back plate". As you can see this from the photo here, the pulse trigger is trashed as well. This puts in a bit of of a pickle because I need to run THIS particular coil which has lighting outputs on it.
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So I got creative when I saw all the part numbers matched up. It's one wire to replace the trigger. Heated it up and swapped it for one off a spare parts motor. Now, I'm not a doctor but I have an inclination it'll work. This coil is getting tossed onto the Monkey Baja motor with the BBR 88cc super stock setup that I was running before I got my 108. You're thinking, the Baja has lights, why do you need to swap the coil over? Well, the coil from that motor went onto the 108 motor. Yay.. So after swapping some stator plates, soldering some coils, I have everything tidied up.

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It just now hit me that I need to order a clutch lever/perch and cable for this motor, so that'll put me back until mid-next week since it's Friday evening. Also have to figure out what I have left for carbs laying around..
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Don't forget that you'll be limited somewhat with carb choices due to the perimiter-style frame and oversize tank
Yeah, I have a much taller intake on the motor now that I know isn't going to pan out well. Should be an absolute pleasure to figure out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Does the stock intake have 48mm center-to-center mounting holes for the carb, Shane?
I still owe you this answer... I'll get that figured out today.

Finished up the wiring last night for the blinkers with integrated turn and brake lights. I'm pretty happy with how it came out, I really wish I had some color wiring just to get it that OEM look but I did use recycled wiring and connectors from my Cub build, so at least there is that.

I think my diodes will be here today so I can get them wired in and hopefully solve my blinker issue. I have my motor buttoned up and I'm going to see how it'll fit with the intake/carb set up I have. Expecting my clutch cable and lever today at some point as well.


Update - Can't fit the clutch lever on the stock bars, soo looks like I need to buy a set of bars, great. Intake/carb setup I have fits under the tank and clears the frame. Getting an air filter to fit maybe tricky. Might have to go with a pancake? Maybe one of those smaller K&N cones...

Diodes are delayed. I hate USPS, 3 day used to mean 3 day. I can't believe the authorized the changes to slow down mail hopefully it doesn't last (20 attorneys general file a complaint to block the Postal Service's strategic plan)
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Okay, I have an update with some photos this time. Got super lucky on this one, turns out my old Baja exhaust fits PERFECT. I had to make a small bracket (which I didn't take a finished photo of yet) to make up for <6 inch gap. I also backed out the exhaust studs to give me enough to thread onto, tossed some loctite on them just to be safe.

Sanded, sanded, and sanded the front and rear fenders. I also fixed a pretty mean crack in the rear that was poorly repaired in the past. I did a pretty solid job, you can't see the crack from the side the matters. Unfortunately the previous repairer went with the theory of "lots of epoxy is always the answer" and the backside is pretty boogered up. The paint obviously isn't perfect but I wet sanded up to 2500 before paint and then before clear. It'll do.

Bought a set of pro taper XR50 BMX bars in black since they closely matched the size of OEM. The throttle cable I have is super long compared to what I need, why can't there be a way to make custom throttle lengths...is there? Clutch cable seems to be the right length.

I also was dead set on fitting a breather tappet on top, so I made that work with absolute minimal clearance. Oh and speaking of clearance, I got an air filter to BARELY clear the frame. Some how my carb/intake/filter combo just worked.

Only issue I ran into was the kicker, you can see it's a pretty wide offset and it still doesn't clear the exhaust. I grabbed my Takegawa knuckled one off my Baja and it JUST touches the rear brake arm. I found this one on TBolt that I'll order, I can't imagine this wont clear (Kick Start Lever Angle CRF Type 14mm shaft - WHS-4030 - Controls - CRF70 and XR70 - Japanese Mini Bike Parts - TBolt USA, LLC)

Still waiting on my diodes, really excited about the change to USPS's mailing times. This is going to get really ridiculous if it doesn't change.

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I shortened up the bracket, rounded the corners and sprayed it please don't rust black.

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Good news! Today reaffirmed I don't have the slightest idea how electricity works! Let me explain -

So I got those diodes, followed the napkin drawn sketch to install them, I used gator clips because I didn't want to commit without testing it all out first. No dice! 4-way blink still blinking. I flip the diode, no difference. I try different grounds, isolating wires, just can't figure it out. I'm doing this all as the bike is switched on so I can see if something I do fixes it. I pull the diodes out which removes the individual blinker wires that go to the bulb in the speedo and suddenly everything works. I don't get it. Maybe it's because I'm now bypassing the bulb which is supposed to act as a ground for each side? I'm not sure, I can probably live with not having the turn indicator blinking. So yeah, that works now, which is cool.

I also picked up a kicker from Tbolt, they were the only ones who had some options. This 45 degree kicker is perfect, it folds in nice and flush too. I don't like chrome, so I primed it and sprayed it black but small victories! Now I'm just waiting on my bars to show up. Also picked up an adapter so I can run a TBPart CDI, they are cheap and fit perfect.


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Not entirely sure this is what you are talking about with the diodes, but it is a common thing to use them on the signal indicator light on the speedo. It separates the right from left blinker wires that are going to the same bulb. The other way to do it is to have two separate indicator bulbs and wires. The other weird thing about wiring is that if your grounds are bad, the electricity can travel through one bulb to the next bulb, using that as the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Not entirely sure this is what you are talking about with the diodes, but it is a common thing to use them on the signal indicator light on the speedo. It separates the right from left blinker wires that are going to the same bulb. The other way to do it is to have two separate indicator bulbs and wires. The other weird thing about wiring is that if your grounds are bad, the electricity can travel through one bulb to the next bulb, using that as the ground.

If you take a look here Chapter 12: The ZB50 you can see the diagram I'm referring to. I had everything set up like this but still didn't resolve the issue. I'm not sure how what I ended up doing solved the issue but it did, so thats cool with me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Yay, progress! Bars showed up the other day, so I tossed those on. Plenty of room for activities and accessories. The red SCOTT grips work out nice for me as well.

Took a few kicks and a little carb adjusting and it fired up. I need to ride it to dial it in but it idles and revs out nice. I tossed a TBParts CDI on it using an adapter from TBolt, so that was cool. I also routed my lines for the catch can. For now I'm using a Saitma Japan Coke Can. I might switch it up later but this will do for now.

Monkey R tank is here. I can't believe how much nicer the gas caps are on these versions, the US ones are so janky (does yours shake and not lock securely?). I need to POR15 it. There is no holes that I can see but the inside has a pretty solid layer of rust.

Spent a good 30 minutes reading the wiring diagram trying to figure out how I was going to get my DRL's to work. I couldn't run it off the H/L beam wiring because that's from the stator and it barely powered them. So I took off trying to figure out if anything on the bike was switched power from the battery. After poking around and reading the diagram, I found the black wires that meet at a 4 way bullet connector is the only switched battery powered wires. You can see everything functioning nicely in the video but that was using a gator clip. In order to get this to work cleanly and be able to disconnect in the future, I need to get a 4 way bullet connector of my own. I wish Radio Shack was still a thing :(

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Pretty cool 😎 key. When are you putting the new back shock on? Nice job on the back fender.
tmas
 
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