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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought 150cc lifan new motor from PisterPro.



What recommendations are there for breaking the motor in? It will be used for on-road only.



Oil favorites? I like to use Motul. Any weight better than others?



Thanks



Muxster
 

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muxster said:
Just bought 150cc lifan new motor from PisterPro.



What recommendations are there for breaking the motor in? It will be used for on-road only.



Oil favorites? I like to use Motul. Any weight better than others?



Thanks



Muxster


How conveniant, I talked to our engine builder on a similar subject today.



He recommended conventional oil until the engine is broken in. His feeling is the rings won't seat properly with synthetic.



I'd use a JASO MA spec oil. Apparently standard fuel conserving automotive engine oil fouls wet clutches, causing slip. I've used Castrol 4 Stroke motorcycle oil for years, but it only comes in 15w40 or 20w50 to my knowledge. Whether or not this appropriate for this engine I do not know.



Anyone still running SAE30?
 

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I use Honda G4 oil, 10w-40. I run the engine for 10 - 15 minutes, let cool, then I repeat this about 3 more times. Then easy around the track a few laps, change the oil and I'm ready to roll. But that's just me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Not racing this engine. Just for running around beach.



Maybe keep under 3/4 throttle for 10 miles?



I will look into Honda Oil.



FIRST THING IS MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG!
 

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I run the Honda oil and found there are two break-in schools of thought:



A. Ride like you stole it to make sure the rings seat

B. A few gentle heat and cool cycles like previously posted.



I do option B.
 

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muxster said:
Not racing this engine. Just for running around beach.



Maybe keep under 3/4 throttle for 10 miles?



I will look into Honda Oil.



FIRST THING IS MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG!


I'd also get a honda filter to replace the mesh one that comes with the Lifan 150.
 

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LoudFastUgly said:
How conveniant, I talked to our engine builder on a similar subject today.



He recommended conventional oil until the engine is broken in. His feeling is the rings won't seat properly with synthetic.



I'd use a JASO MA spec oil. Apparently standard fuel conserving automotive engine oil fouls wet clutches, causing slip. I've used Castrol 4 Stroke motorcycle oil for years, but it only comes in 15w40 or 20w50 to my knowledge. Whether or not this appropriate for this engine I do not know.



Anyone still running SAE30?


I don't want to steal his thread but running any "fuel conserving auto oil" is a no-no with wet clutch systems, they contain friction modifiers. Either 4-stroke motorcycle oils and certain diesel oils like Shell Rotella-T are the way to go if you don't want a slipping clutch.



I've been using Shell Rotella T in bikes both big and small for years. It's about half the dang price of MC oil and has good reviews with other bike owners, just do a Google search you'll see.
 

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yeah says right in the manual of every new bike ive bought not to run motor oil with the green energy conserving circle thing



Luckily some companies still make regular oil that doesnt have that, I have a few boxes full of just plain castrol 10-30 that I run in all my bikes and have never had a problem. I change the oil after every ride so I figure why bother spending money on fancy oil its only in the motor for a few hours anyways



As far as break in just ride it decently (I wouldnt bag the snot out of it) for about 20 minutes or so get it nice and hot, then change the oil to get any new motor shavings or whatever out and boom ride it like its stolen!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Guys..thats why this site works!



I won a Mikuni 28mm Flatslide that will be going on this. Any body ran carb like that on 150cc motor? I will have to jet down for shizzle!



Mux
 

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Take it out and ride it wide open for the first tank of gas,and if anything happens just blame the vendor.LOL!!!!!!!!!







































































Yes I am joking!
 

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big pete said:
I'd also get a honda filter to replace the mesh one that comes with the Lifan 150.
Anyone who knows the correct (honda) part number for that filter?





edit: I think I found the correct (Honda) numbers



filter: 15412-HB6-003

spring: 15414-HB6-000

O-ring: 91302-HB6-003
 

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Dont use synthetic for break in, makes it hard to seat the rings properly.



Start up the motor and get it good and warm. Then break it in HARD, lots of acceleration and deceleration. Just make sure theres a load on the engine.



You dont want to p*ssyfoot around and do an easy break in. No warm up/cool/warm up/cool crap.



If you really want it done right put the piston in DRY
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I received the motor today. Packing was terrible but the motor appeared to be intact.



The CDI unit is much larger than the one that I have for my 140cc Lifan.



There is some styrofoam bits in the intake which I can vaccum out. Also, one of the



plastic manifold spacers is cracked for the intake.





I will check on these parts. I can bring in to dealer and match it up



filter: 15412-HB6-003

spring: 15414-HB6-000

O-ring: 91302-HB6-003



and I will grab some of this < Honda G4 oil, 10w-40 >




As mentioned this is for streeting around and not for track use etc. I just dont want to blow it up rolling out of the garage!



One day...hopefully, I will be able to build the "Golden-Gawa" motor from a Honda base. But until that day I have to "RUN what I BRUNG!"



Thanks for your input



Muxster
 

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I just rode on the surface streets when I broke in my Lifan Iron 140cc. That varied the rpms enough for my liking. I Used the Older Style Rotella-T 15-w40.



It has about 300 miles on it now. It runs like a champ.
 

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muxster said:
I received the motor today. Packing was terrible but the motor appeared to be intact.



The CDI unit is much larger than the one that I have for my 140cc Lifan.



There is some styrofoam bits in the intake which I can vaccum out. Also, one of the



plastic manifold spacers is cracked for the intake.



Muxster


Sucks to hear. The packaging on mine was very good and everything inside was undamaged. Shoot them an email and I'm sure they can help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, 6 pack of RedStripes and HondaZRiders shop, motor is mounted in place. Looks way better than the black 140cc I have been running and is sleaker as well as lighter. I am going to have to re-wire though.



150 lifan Wiring Diagram?



http://tboltusa.com/store/images/LIFAN 150 wiring .jpg

Also, my clutch cable is not working from the 140cc. What do I need to remedy that? It's too long it seems.



Is the stock oil cooler good enough for cooling?



Also, motor comes with oil in it. Should I drain and refill or just run it for a little bit then drain?

Thanks



Muxster
 

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I don't know how outdated this info is, but it's worked for me before on a couple two-stroke bike engines, a Z50, a Ford 8N tractor and a AMC six in my old Jeep...on the first break-in oil, you want to get the motor up to temp fairly gently, then run it through the gears until you're in high gear and do a couple of full-throttle roll-ons from a low-mid rpm up to a mid-high rpm...not starting low enough for it to be lugging, but so it can snort a bit, and letting off before it really revs out. Then decelerate with throttle closed back to your starting speed each time. This loads the rings against the cylinder walls with compression and then deceleration vacuum. Repeat several times.



Also, during that break-in period, don't hang at one steady rpm for too long; vary it as much as you can stand to. This is sort of funny to try; it's harder than you might think.
 
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