Brand new TB 88, no semi neutral!

two things



you arent in neutral

or

you need to adjust your clutch.

Maybe you dont understand. I start the bike in neutral. I try to put it in gear once its started and it jumps forward every time, and dies. I tried adjusting the clutch, but I cant figure it out. Which way do you think I should turn the screw to adjust the clutch? In or out? Because I have tried both and nothing has worked.

Try to lower the idle. But high idle wouldn't explain why it's dying.

had the same issues...clutch adjustment and be sure the actuating arm is in the correct position

doopsx3 said:

had the same issues...clutch adjustment and be sure the actuating arm is in the correct position

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What is the correct position for the actuating arm? I'll keep trying to adjust the clutch, and see what happens.

good video, it would have been better if the bike fell over while he was tightening the lock nut. I was also waiting in anticipation for it to pop a wheelie & loop him off the back after he put in gear when finished, oh well....

Overtightening of the clutch nut (using an air wrench ?) will cause the slider bushing to mushroom slightly which in turn causes the clutch to be always engaged. Something else to consider.

should i expect the clutch to do this when i put the 88cc kit on my stock 70 clutch also?

to an extent yes, after you take it apart and put it back together do just what he said



since you took it apart you will have to readjust it

as in turn the adjuster counterclockwise yada yada deal? to adjust the clutch..or do i need to get a heavy duty clutch for the 70? i was told no need for one

doopsx3 said:

Well I hope that I can explain...it should be around a 45 degree angle.. #7, 5, and 9 should all align up so that it is centered on the clutch...the actuating arm will then have only one place to go...about at a 45 degree angle

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Actually, part #7 is held in place to the inside of the clutch cover by the adjuster stud (part #8).

yes sir you are correct.I need to get a better quality of wine...maybe from MD 20/20 and upgrade to Night Train

did u remove the clutch cover or just install the topend?

dood said:

You need to go down to a Honda dealer and get a new clutch bushing.



Once you over torque the nut you crush the bushing and the bike will never free wheel



The manual says 31lbs. DO NOT DO THIS.



hand tight and lock over tabs.

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I don't agree. I have always tightened the nut to 30 ft/lbs and never had a problem. I would never finger tighten the nut that holds on the most unbalanced part of the crank. And also the torque of the motor can loosen the nut just from spinning. This is similar to a bicycle where the left pedal is reverse threaded to prevent the simple turning from loosening the spindle from the crank arm. That is why Honda made the little cup washer that compressed and why they also put in the lock tab washer. They did this because the nut could spin off. But on the flywheel side, the motor turns the correct way to keep the nut tight. I suggest you use a proper torque wrench and torque to 30 ft/lbs. Don't use an air tool. Air tools are only good for removing when it comes to engines.

FastMC said:

Overtightening of the clutch nut (using an air wrench ?) will cause the slider bushing to mushroom slightly which in turn causes the clutch to be always engaged. Something else to consider.

Click to expand...

I did use an impact wrench to take the nut off and put it back on, but that doesn't make sense because the primary drive gear sits on top of the bushing and Im pretty sure it doesn't stick out farther than the primary drive gear. So how does that work?