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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed a TB 88 on my 70 with a stock clutch. The clutch worked fine before I put the 88 kit on, now when I start the bike and try to kick it in gear it jumps forward and instantly dies. There is no semi neutral AT ALL. The bike wont even idle in gear as it should. I took the clutch apart multiple times and put it back together, and the bike still does it. It will not come to a stop and idle in gear, and semi neutral is gone. I should be able to hold the shifter up as if I were pulling a clutch lever in, and drop the lever down as if I dumped the clutch lever on a big bike, and haul ass. This also does not happen anymore. Basically I cant ride my bike at all until I figure this out, and it is really pissing me off. PLEASE someone help!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Maybe you dont understand. I start the bike in neutral. I try to put it in gear once its started and it jumps forward every time, and dies. I tried adjusting the clutch, but I cant figure it out. Which way do you think I should turn the screw to adjust the clutch? In or out? Because I have tried both and nothing has worked.
 

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Well I hope that I can explain...it should be around a 45 degree angle.. #7, 5, and 9 should all align up so that it is centered on the clutch...the actuating arm will then have only one place to go...about at a 45 degree angle

 

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good video, it would have been better if the bike fell over while he was tightening the lock nut. I was also waiting in anticipation for it to pop a wheelie & loop him off the back after he put in gear when finished, oh well.... :p
 

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Overtightening of the clutch nut (using an air wrench ?) will cause the slider bushing to mushroom slightly which in turn causes the clutch to be always engaged. Something else to consider.
 

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doopsx3 said:
Well I hope that I can explain...it should be around a 45 degree angle.. #7, 5, and 9 should all align up so that it is centered on the clutch...the actuating arm will then have only one place to go...about at a 45 degree angle



Actually, part #7 is held in place to the inside of the clutch cover by the adjuster stud (part #8).
 

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You need to go down to a Honda dealer and get a new clutch bushing.



Once you over torque the nut you crush the bushing and the bike will never free wheel



The manual says 31lbs. DO NOT DO THIS.



hand tight and lock over tabs.
 

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dood said:
You need to go down to a Honda dealer and get a new clutch bushing.



Once you over torque the nut you crush the bushing and the bike will never free wheel



The manual says 31lbs. DO NOT DO THIS.



hand tight and lock over tabs.


I don't agree. I have always tightened the nut to 30 ft/lbs and never had a problem. I would never finger tighten the nut that holds on the most unbalanced part of the crank. And also the torque of the motor can loosen the nut just from spinning. This is similar to a bicycle where the left pedal is reverse threaded to prevent the simple turning from loosening the spindle from the crank arm. That is why Honda made the little cup washer that compressed and why they also put in the lock tab washer. They did this because the nut could spin off. But on the flywheel side, the motor turns the correct way to keep the nut tight. I suggest you use a proper torque wrench and torque to 30 ft/lbs. Don't use an air tool. Air tools are only good for removing when it comes to engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
FastMC said:
Overtightening of the clutch nut (using an air wrench ?) will cause the slider bushing to mushroom slightly which in turn causes the clutch to be always engaged. Something else to consider.




I did use an impact wrench to take the nut off and put it back on, but that doesn't make sense because the primary drive gear sits on top of the bushing and Im pretty sure it doesn't stick out farther than the primary drive gear. So how does that work?
 
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