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Discussion Starter #21
I may be wrong but idk if leds wikk work with that wiring setup.
I may be wrong. You may have to make it dc setup with a battery.
I hope someone chimes in that knows for sure.
If the DC voltage is at least 12 volts or slightly more, I don't see this not working. I've tested these LED's on straight DC from a 14 volt motorcycle battery without blowing the internal capacitors.

I've also ran a set of halogen driving lights and an led tail light from a zx6r on my beach cruiser bicycle, as a joke, run straight off a motorcycle battery with only a relay to keep the switch from shorting out the wires.

I don't have the tail lights hooked up yet since I'm waiting for some money to come in so that I can order a few things I need to get the motor running, if it will run. :confused: It's stuck in gear and I have no clutch cable. It's a real pain to even try getting out of gear without a cable and lever. Even so, I now need an intake adapter so I can have the carb on the right side of the motor instead of the left because of that starter motor mount sticking up from the left cover and case. Then I need a 428 chain and a 428 rear sprocket before I can start riding again. :(
 

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What I meant was with a regulator only I think the voltage will be running AC not DC.
I thought you would need a battery to make it DC. Maybe I'm wrong.
only way to tell is to start the engine n hook it up.
I need to know also, because if no battery is needed, the beater Z will get this similar setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
What I meant was with a regulator only I think the voltage will be running AC not DC.
I thought you would need a battery to make it DC. Maybe I'm wrong.
only way to tell is to start the engine n hook it up.
I need to know also, because if no battery is needed, the beater Z will get this similar setup.

OK, I'll let you know as soon as I get it running. It might be a couple of weeks from now though, if the motor will turn over at all.

EDIT:

I ended up not even using that wire diagram by the way. I just cut the wires from my old stator and spliced the stator wires for this motor into the female plug that my old harness uses and then spliced the regulator from the yellow and white and using my red lead from the regulator as the hot lead for the lights and grounded out my negatives on the same wire using quick connect clips and electrical tape and wrapped everything up in some plastic wire loom and sealed it with electrical tape and zip tied it all neatly to the frame. :D

If I end up needing a battery I have no idea where I'm going to put it at lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I was able to get the motor running. The difference a 125cc vs a 70cc motor is epic. :eek:

Anyways....

The regulator is shot or just not putting out power. I'll have to check the connections and make sure they're correct. It should be the red that outputs 12.5+/- volts!?! If it's not then my regulator is shot and need to get a new one. So I was unable to get at least the headlight on but I got the motor running. :eek:
 

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Did you check the output from the stator to see if its even putting any power out?
Check that first then move onto the regulator
You will need a volt meter. Set it on ac n see what it's putting out.
The higher you rev it the more volts it'll put out.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Did you check the output from the stator to see if its even putting any power out?
Check that first then move onto the regulator
You will need a volt meter. Set it on ac n see what it's putting out.
The higher you rev it the more volts it'll put out.
I don't see why it wouldn't be putting any power out. Everything about the motor is stock and came off of this bike.
125cc Super Bikes - Phoenix R2 RS-25

I'll check that real fast though. Yes I have a volt meter. :p
 

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Cool let us know
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Yeah, that thing is putting out enough power to charge a car battery. So it's either my wiring or it's the regulator. I had the volt meter set at 500 and it was still maxing it out when I revved it up on an analog meter. I'll have to use a digital meter later tomorrow when I can so that I can get the numbers it's putting out.
 

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Mine only went to 40volts on a digital meter
 

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Yeah, that thing is putting out enough power to charge a car battery. So it's either my wiring or it's the regulator. I had the volt meter set at 500 and it was still maxing it out when I revved it up on an analog meter. I'll have to use a digital meter later tomorrow when I can so that I can get the numbers it's putting out.
If the meter was maxing out it sounds like you had your meter set to measure DC and not AC - you will get funny readings if set wrong. Not sure where you are measuring, but my basic understanding is power output from a stator is in AC format (the positive/negative streams fluctuate from either side). Normally then it takes a rectifier ( a cheap component) that separates the positive and negative to make it DC, then the regulator that limits the voltage to a maximum level like 12.9 volts (so that a battery can be safely charged). Sometimes the regulator has a rectifier built in.

Sorry if this is a gross oversimplification of how it works, but might help you sort it out.

Darrie
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
If the meter was maxing out it sounds like you had your meter set to measure DC and not AC - you will get funny readings if set wrong. Not sure where you are measuring, but my basic understanding is power output from a stator is in AC format (the positive/negative streams fluctuate from either side). Normally then it takes a rectifier ( a cheap component) that separates the positive and negative to make it DC, then the regulator that limits the voltage to a maximum level like 12.9 volts (so that a battery can be safely charged). Sometimes the regulator has a rectifier built in.

Sorry if this is a gross oversimplification of how it works, but might help you sort it out.

Darrie
I think the analog multimeter I was using was for smaller electronics and not meant for higher outputs. I grabbed the digital one from work today and made a short video. I'll post it on youtube real fast so you can see it.

I'm pretty sure that it had a built in rectifier in the regulator since the wire harness he gave me that was from the bike before had no connections for a separate rectifier hook up. It used basically the same parts as a scooter or pit bike. Which is why he gave me the motor to begin with. Just bolt and go.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Mine only went to 40volts on a digital meter
I'm peaking at just over 90 (AC current) [DC mode drops to 0.00 so I know it's on the correct setting] full open for a second. I'm not trying to blow my motor up after finally getting it to run lol. But I'm sure that it will hit around 93-95 or so if I held it open longer.
 

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I did short quick throttle bursts to see it rise to 40.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I did short quick throttle bursts to see it rise to 40.
Depending on next weeks payday I might be getting a new rectifier/regulator and I'll let you know if it works without the use of a battery or not. Sorry this is going a bit slower than you were probably hoping for. :p Bills come first though. I just ordered a new front sprocket and clutch cable for my bike and that's all I could squeeze from my last paycheck Since I'm forking over 90% of my paycheck to catch up on my bills.
 

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Its all good, we know how ya feel.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Its all good, we know how ya feel.
While I'm waiting I have been doing some more research to back up what I'm sure will work based on other experiences with electrical work and knowing how rectifiers/regulators work. All that does is change AC into DC and the only current reason most people think that you need a battery is for the electrical. The real reason you need a battery is for the starter motor to operate. The rest of the time your stator/magneto is putting out power to recharge that battery and keep it full for the next time you need to draw out CCA to start a motor. Just knowing this much should already tell you that you can run lights with only a rectifier/regulator since most to any vehicle in the world draws 12v DC to power the lights and using a regulator to change AC to DC would do that since it would be a constant power output of 12v +/-

It's the same concept as those little bike generators that you put on kids' bikes on the rear wheel. As the wheel spins, it generates DC current and powers the light.

I found this basic diagram to show you since it's easier to see than to put into words because I tend to over complicate things more than they need to be lol.
I'll edit it later and show you that you can run lights without a battery on any mini bike.
4 Wire wo Battery HI.JPG
 

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I hope that's true. I want to run no battery in my 95 z50r unless I have too and I'm gonna run all LEDs for it.
Led headlight & taillight or tail light at least. I won't ride much at night at all though. Mainly day time.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
I hope that's true. I want to run no battery in my 95 z50r unless I have too and I'm gonna run all LEDs for it.
Led headlight & taillight or tail light at least. I won't ride much at night at all though. Mainly day time.
If you're going to use all and only LED lights, buy some load resistors with them. You'll thank me for it later instead of blowing out your LED's. the load resistors will draw the voltage and then only feed the led,s what they need to run since LED's only need a low voltage to be used. The load resistors will get hot very fast so mount them to something metal and where air can get to them easily.

Here is what I came up with since none of us are running 4 wire stators lol.

Wo bat.jpg

Note: Some people hook the regulator up and still splice the wire for lights lights to the yellow in line, just before the regulator. I'm not sure why though since the power isn't regulated before the regulator/rectifier, or so I would assume at least?

Unless they have their regulator tied into the rest of the wire harness using the hot on the regulator into the ignition switch as the first pic shows. It would become a closed circuit allowing that yellow to become regulated before feeding into the regulator/rectifier.

I don't have mine tied in. I like having the dedicated 90 + volts of AC for a nice hot spark so that I'm not bogging down my motor when I open it up. To each their own though.
 

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Well I have a harness coming in so I can try this rectifier and to see if I need or dont need a battery for LEDs to work.
 
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