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Discussion Starter #1
So, I had just planned on using a quality rattle can followed by a quality clear coat. Everything was primed a while back before i started assembly (actual primer paint) and then treated with Ospho to stop any rust in between build and paint. Everything was going so well too. I made a little booth, hung everything, put on the first 4-5 sprays, nothing heavy, which ended up being about 2 full cover coats. When I came home that evening from a full days sitting at 76 degrees (mini split AC in garage), I went to put another coat on and noticed some weird crackle looking things on my forks. Turns out, it's on every single piece I painted. Not runs, just like it dried really weird. See pics.

Any idea where I went wrong? I never opened the garage door so the temp stayed exactly at 76. I'm in Tampa and yesterday did get super humid ahead of a cold front but the AC in the garage should have controlled it in there.

Where do I go from here? Should I hand strip (chemicals) it all and start over? Sand and fix what is bad? Sandblast and take it to a pro? I really didn't want to powdercoat this until I knew I loved the color scheme and even then, rattle can should be fine for my needs as this is not supposed to be a full restore.

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Discussion Starter #2
Since i'm on the paint topic, applied my logos for the 76 on the tank. My plan was to clear coat this in a glossy clear coat. Aside from a good wipe of denatured alcohol with a lint free towel, is there anything else I should consider before I go to spraying the clear coat on? Is it even worth the clear coat as that sticker is quite thick and I imagine it would take many, many coats of clear sprayed on to protect them.

What's the play here? What do you guys normally do to protect them or is nothing the answer here if i'm not planning on taking it to a pro to have it professional sprayed?

As always, many thanks for the wisdom from the collective!
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The reducer in rattle cans is maxed out, one of the reasons they say either spray recoats within a short (less than an hour) period, or after 7 days, to make sure its totally cured. Too much reducer can cause this problem. Keeping your spray tip too close to the piece you are painting does not allow for as much evaporation of the reducer can be the cause, as well as not shaking your can long and hard to begin with, and in between. The other thing that can cause layer separation is too much humidity. If those pieces were primed a while back and left in a humid environment, you might want to bake the pieces before painting. It is best to completely strip the finish at this point prior to re-paint. As far as painting over decals, if you do anything but a super fine coat for the first 4 or 5 passes, you run the risk of puckering up the decal. It is a similar thing to the paint puckering, where the reducer is able to soak into the vinyl and adhesive if laid on too thick. To do them safely, a fine single coat (it should be so fine it leaves no gloss, but a bumpy appearance) with long drying in between coats is the way to go. If you do it right, it looks terrible until you sand it out. Once you have that first layer of coats sanded, you can lay additional coats like normal, avoiding overly thick coats. To be honest, I don't usually paint over decals, but it is not a bad idea, as the decals will rub off some color with regular riding. Don't give up on painting, even pros have bad days. I am not a professional painter, but have painted numerous bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The reducer in rattle cans is maxed out, one of the reasons they say either spray recoats within a short (less than an hour) period, or after 7 days, to make sure its totally cured. Too much reducer can cause this problem. Keeping your spray tip too close to the piece you are painting does not allow for as much evaporation of the reducer can be the cause, as well as not shaking your can long and hard to begin with, and in between. The other thing that can cause layer separation is too much humidity. If those pieces were primed a while back and left in a humid environment, you might want to bake the pieces before painting. It is best to completely strip the finish at this point prior to re-paint. As far as painting over decals, if you do anything but a super fine coat for the first 4 or 5 passes, you run the risk of puckering up the decal. It is a similar thing to the paint puckering, where the reducer is able to soak into the vinyl and adhesive if laid on too thick. To do them safely, a fine single coat (it should be so fine it leaves no gloss, but a bumpy appearance) with long drying in between coats is the way to go. If you do it right, it looks terrible until you sand it out. Once you have that first layer of coats sanded, you can lay additional coats like normal, avoiding overly thick coats. To be honest, I don't usually paint over decals, but it is not a bad idea, as the decals will rub off some color with regular riding. Don't give up on painting, even pros have bad days. I am not a professional painter, but have painted numerous bikes.
Thanks for the great info @davmo. I must have waited too long in between resprays as it was a good 6+ hours and I did shoot it from a distance of 2-3 feet+ as I've hosed this sort of thing up enough times with rattle cans shooting a super wet spray occasionally and leaving a drip mark. My goal was just barely mist the stuff on each pass and it was almost there...i mean, this literally could have been the final coat. Heartbreaking. smfh.

I think I'll just leave the decal as is and if I decide to some day fully restore it to its Canary yellow or go some other color I'll just have a pro do it all for that mint job.

Well, i'm off to go kill some brain cells stripping paint...

Thanks again.
 

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Tank decals look great on the white bike. I'm with David, I haven't cleared tanks with decals. Just run them exposed. No problems so far. Just been careful while gassing them up. I usually use a funnel and quickly clean the inevitable drips.
Sorry bout the paint peel on the parts painted. Real bummer.
 

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Ouch sorry to see that :( I’ve ran into that problem before I’d stay the primer has reacted with your top coat of paint
it has Likely gone to hard or they where 2 different brands that reacted badly might sound silly but that happened on a car I was painting
It was nothing in your painting technique sometimes these things just happen :(
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ouch sorry to see that :( I’ve ran into that problem before I’d stay the primer has reacted with your top coat of paint
it has Likely gone to hard or they where 2 different brands that reacted badly might sound silly but that happened on a car I was painting
It was nothing in your painting technique sometimes these things just happen :(
Thanks, man, I had read ahead of time not to mix brands or types so went with Krylon for all (primer, base, and clear) but who knows. I think it had to do with timing between coats as Davmo said but it could have been anything as it did get ultra south Florida humid just before I put that last coat on hours ahead of a cold front.

I’m 99% sure it’s because all day I thought and must have said aloud “finally I did a decent paint job!” And 2020 responded...”hold my beer!” :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Tank decals look great on the white bike. I'm with David, I haven't cleared tanks with decals. Just run them exposed. No problems so far. Just been careful while gassing them up. I usually use a funnel and quickly clean the inevitable drips.
Sorry bout the paint peel on the parts painted. Real bummer.
Thanks for the reply, I’m with you guys, I’m leaving it just decal and will be cautious filling rather than clearing it. In the long run it’s got be much cheaper to replace stickers every now and then! So...leaving it be. Thanks for the extra advice and nudge in the right direction.
 

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I painted a K2 Z50 tank once and had the SAME problem. I used white rust-oleum over the whole tank, then went over top of the white with blue...some color match paint...duplicolor maybe. Anyway, the blue made it crinkle up. Someone told me if I had put the blue down first, I could have gone over it with the rust-oleum, but not vice versa. Something about, lacquer vs enamel or whatever.
A painter I am not...either.
Very sorry about your problem...you're taking it very well tho. Kudos for your sticktoititivness.
 

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I feel your pain.
I did this same thing two years ago. But learned a very important lesson.

Gloss paint is the devil!

Its caused by the paint itself. When you spray it, the color and the clear are mixed together and when it dries they separate.
When you spray a 2nd coat, it eats the 1st paint job if you don't wait long enough.

So with gloss paint...
Day 1 prime sand and paint with gloss
Day 2 sand
Day 3-6 drink beers
Day 7 spray 2nd coat of gloss.

That works everytime for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I feel your pain.
I did this same thing two years ago. But learned a very important lesson.

Gloss paint is the devil!

Its caused by the paint itself. When you spray it, the color and the clear are mixed together and when it dries they separate.
When you spray a 2nd coat, it eats the 1st paint job if you don't wait long enough.

So with gloss paint...
Day 1 prime sand and paint with gloss
Day 2 sand
Day 3-6 drink beers
Day 7 spray 2nd coat of gloss.

That works everytime for me.
Thanks for the tip and for sharing your experience. Getting this crap off again without boring my buddies sand blaster and then vapor blaster, I’m seriously considering ha if a pro do it this time. The plastic pieces are toast...need a new headlight bucket and side cover now. smfh.
 

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Let that cure for a week after you sand it, then spray another layer on top.
My tank wrinkled and I just about lost it.
I sanded it the next day, left it alone for a couple weeks then on a whim... I sprayed a thick coat of gloss white.

Looks great and I am still rocking it.
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