It is easy in theory, but not so easy in practice for these engines.
The problem is the angle of the spark plug. The angle is so shallow that the indicator wants to bend instead of deflect. You really need a bent tip (in a bent tube) on the end so that when the pistons pushes the indicator retracts instead of bending.
It only took me a half hour to adapt one for my dial indicator, but you would need a friction free one to work good.
So which commercial ones work good and which don't.
So which ones are in your tool box and which ones are in the trash bin?
I used to use one my dad made, to set the points on my GTMX80 and TY250, back when they spec'd distance BTDC for timing. The poor angle of most mini head plug holes makes it a bit iffy, like you said.
Which, unless you use a bolt on stop that the piston hits before TDC, and roll in both directions, mark and split, exactly as the plug hole one would be used, is just as inaccurate as a screwdriver in the plug hole. Dwell at TDC isn't accurate with a dial indicator, and sure as hell isn't with an eye-crometer
All due respect to Geezer, that is not actually the only true way to do it
To use a dial indicator, and note the pointer reading at about 1mm before tdc, and 1mm beyond tdc, measured in piston travel. Then the pointer position exactly halfway between these readings is exact TDC.
All due respect to Geezer, that is not actually the only true way to do it
To use a dial indicator, and note the pointer reading at about 1mm before tdc, and 1mm beyond tdc, measured in piston travel. Then the pointer position exactly halfway between these readings is exact TDC.
I thought that was what he said. I build drag race engines and use the piston stop-both directions,and split on degree wheel. also use duration@.050 when degree cams.On race car engines that is. Im in the 1%.Sure you can get really close shoving a wire in the hole and see how far it comes out too.Its all good.I dont know these engines-Yet.Or how close factory is what i mean. Is there something i missed on the piston stop split method?
I thought that was what he said. I build drag race engines and use the piston stop-both directions,and split on degree wheel. also use duration@.050 when degree cams. Im in the 1%.Sure you can get really close shoving a wire in the hole and see how far it comes out too.Its all good.I dont know these engines-Yet.Or how close factory is what i mean.
I guess FPM was trying to say a dial indicator was not accurate for finding TDC, and only the stop method was the end all , I agree that is a solid method and most practical.
Since the OP was referring to a dial indicator, I was confirming that , Yes one can find TDC with one properly set up and used.
degree wheel and tdc stop is the quickest method, as many have already agreed and posted. The fancy stuff tends to look good but just adds unnecessary details.
Isn't "significant error" letting your beer get warm while trying to reset your dial indicator? lol
I made one that has an adjustable length. The adjustable length came in handy so I could get a reasonable length.
The picture shows the double locknutted inner part set up for the length I used. It sticks out about an inch.
As best as I could tell, TDC on my Chinese large flywheel is about 1/16 inches off. That translates to about 1.6 degrees off. If the marks show you have 20 degrees lead, then you have 21.6
Not a lot, but if you are on the ragged edge, ...
Does any else know how much some flywheels are off?