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Discussion Starter #41
That
Hey Kirrby, there is a way to make any single filament tail light into a brake/running light. Two diodes and a 100 Ohm resistor and some soldering. Revival Cycles in Austin carries them for about 8 bucks, or if you want to roll your own, they are pretty cheap and easy to do (parts list is less than a buck.) Make a "Y" with two wires, with zener diodes on each side, and the resistor on one leg of the Y. The resistor leg goes to the running light wire from the harness, the other to brake light wire from the harness, and the single side of the y goes to the tail light power. I have done it numerous times and can say it works great (especially with LED's.)
That's good info. I"ll do a little research to try to understand it. Them I'll be back with good questions. I'm definitely interested.

I did get a start on my own, initial plan. I've made lights before for CT70 speedo lights...same bulb base I think.
I was going to do a spin off of that, using two LED's that could share the ground. But I think I'll need some sort of resistors for this setup to keep from burning out the LED's.

This is the speedo bulb. Just a piece of rubber hose with wires glued in.
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This is what I've started on for a TL/BL.

IMG_20200126_084548517.jpg IMG_20200126_090434145.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Hey Kirrby, there is a way to make any single filament tail light into a brake/running light. Two diodes and a 100 Ohm resistor and some soldering. Revival Cycles in Austin carries them for about 8 bucks, or if you want to roll your own, they are pretty cheap and easy to do (parts list is less than a buck.) Make a "Y" with two wires, with zener diodes on each side, and the resistor on one leg of the Y. The resistor leg goes to the running light wire from the harness, the other to brake light wire from the harness, and the single side of the y goes to the tail light power. I have done it numerous times and can say it works great (especially with LED's.)
I believe I've found the gadget...

Then I went to the led store and ordered up a new bulb socket...since I already drilled mine out. And a couple of 5-led bulbs to fit that socket. The little bulb that my TL uses is a BA9s size base. Pretty tiny little bulb. So I'm interested to see how well this setup will work...basically how bright it will be. The bulb I ordered says it's the equivalent of a 5-10 watt incandescent bulb.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
When I found the gadget, it took care of my questions. You described how it was made...but I didn't understand. But I just bought the gadget :)
I bought a extra one that I can dissect a bit to see how it's made. I got the smallest one, made for a 5 to 10 led array bulb.

I bought a Xtra bulb too. This bulb is almost too tall to fit inside of the TL housing.

 

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I believe I've found the gadget...

Then I went to the led store and ordered up a new bulb socket...since I already drilled mine out. And a couple of 5-led bulbs to fit that socket. The little bulb that my TL uses is a BA9s size base. Pretty tiny little bulb. So I'm interested to see how well this setup will work...basically how bright it will be. The bulb I ordered says it's the equivalent of a 5-10 watt incandescent bulb.
That's the one! The only thing you have to be careful of if you make your own is to turn the diodes the correct direction. Electricity will flow in only one direction through the diodes.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I finally got my ignition and brake light switch tabs welded on.
Removed the motor and most of the electrics so I could roll the bike over, and stand it up. Welding went fine.
I tried to locate the BL switch tab...in a good spot. But I didn't install the exhaust for mock up. Well the exhaust comes pretty close. I think it will be ok tho. It might need a little heat shield, and/or a clip to hold the wires away.
Clutch cable too. I was expecting that tho.

The muffler is in the way of my bracket for the tail light too...back at the grab bar. Forgot to picture it. It'll be ok, but right now the outer bolt for the TL bracket clamp hits on the muffler. A sure rattle, and scratch.

The "wave" shift lever from spanglers won't work with my setup unless I cut and reweld it. I'll post more about that later too.

My wire harness is ready to wrap. Then I have a buttload of ends to crimp on...basically ALL of them. I'm even going to change the ends on the ignition switch so I can use a smaller plastic plug.

I think I have everything I need now, bought and received. I just have a lot of work to do to be ready to ride.

The wire harness is the big hold up right now. I need to dive in, get it buttoned up.

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Discussion Starter #47
Seems like we get about a inch of snow, every other day, and a inch melts off on the days in-between snows. Not much to speak of on the ground right now tho.

I'm changing the big plug on the ignition switch to the small 6 spot CDI type plug. I want the plug to end up under the tank. The big one would have been a problem.

I'm planning to put ends on for the battery after I get the harness wrapped and in place. Hopefully make it neat and tidy...have a fuse holder to deal with there.

Still have work to do for the TL too.

My plan for the neutral light will not work. Gonna need a NEW plan. Maybe a indicator light in the HL bucket, or pick a light, then make a mount similar to the K3.

None of that will keep me from riding this trike tho. Needs to be done, but not a show stopper.
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35 terminals crimped on, plus 6 that I goofed. I didn't solder any of them tho. Hopefully my crimps are good. I did solder all of the wire splices tho.
I'll lay it in and test thru the lighting before I wrap it. Then I'll celebrate, and move forward with some funner stuff
:)
:)

IMG_20200210_191941103.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I realized, that THIS was going to be a problem. TRX90 Lside cover, on a ATC70. I bolted it up for a look.
IMG_20200212_210401455.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Here's what I'm thinking on the flywheel cover.

The ATC70 cover fits and fills the gap over to the big steel chain guard.

s-l1600.jpg s-l400 (2).jpg


The TRX90 flywheel cover leaves a big gap to catch snow, sand, mud...plus, it just looks like shit.
IMG_20200212_210401455.jpg


The 70 pullstart, is different than the 90 pullstart...but I'm wondering how different they are..?
Maybe the ATC70 flywheel cover will work with the 90...12v flywheel and PS cage??
Maybe the 90 PS can be made to work with the 70 flywheel cover??
Maybe I can graft the tail end of a 70 FW cover, onto the 90 FW cover??

Spanglers sells a kit to replace a broken/missing ATC70 pullstarter...
Their pullstart "conversion" kit comes with a spacer that moves the bolt pattern on the 70 cover. The converted bolt pattern looks similar to the 90 PS bolt pattern..?

s-l400 (1).jpg

Just another challenge. Every modification from stock leads to 3 more modifications. Typical.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
The bolt pattern almost matches up, but I can't get 2 bolts in unless I drill/modify the holes.
IMG_20200216_172439052.jpg


2-³/¹6" vs 1-¾"
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Other than those 2 problems, I would just need to notch the ATC70 cover for the trigger, then it would work.

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So...if I could cut a ⅜" slice off of the front of a ATC70 cover and weld it onto another ATC70 cover...all I would have to do to make a TRX90 pullstart work is drill the holes out bigger.

Another question I had was whether a ATC70 PS cage would bolt up to the TRX flywheel. The answer is...no, not easily at least.

IMG_20200216_174911229.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I like this seat pan edging alot. Very flexible and easy to work with, good profile, and holds on...tight enough. You can see the profile on the small piece in my pic.

I've never been real happy with my finished product when I recover a seat tho.
My seat foam had a...dent, that I might have been able to fix if I would (should) have tried. It looked like a heave pipe, or bar had laid on the seat for years...caused a permanent distortion in the foam. It shows some thru the new cover.
And my seat is also a little lumpy looking and maybe a bit lopsided... IDK. It looks good enough I spose.
I was wishing for 4 more pointed tabs on the seat pan too.
Lastly, this cover, on this seat pan, is too loose at the front edge. Maybe I needed to poke the tabs thru ABOVE the bottom...apron seam. Basically stretch the cover tighter, pull the seam down farther, and farther under the pan.
Another note...this cover is made of stretchy vinyl. I don't think CT70 covers are this stretchy.

I didn't get pics of how things get assembled. But I have parts that I could use to show ya, later. I scratched my head a bit figuring it out.
The plastics seem to be pretty nice tho. They mounted up easily enough, and seem pretty stout...look good. Money well spent.

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Discussion Starter #53
Next problem...carb hits the tank fuel outlet.

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I stretched the frame 2", forward of the tank, the tank stayed back, close to the seat. I have a tall cylinder engine which puts the carb 6mm farther forward than the stock motor. I'm also using a VM20 carb which is taller than the stock carb. I'm pretty sure my intake is the dratv left turnout...24mm at the carb end, and about 20mm at the engine end. And...the carb hits the tank. The rearmost, ON outlet comes down on top of the choke/primer knob. There is room to move the carb straight down, or maybe farther back. I
I need to... cut the intake to lower the carb, about ¼". Add a spacer or thicker insulator at the carb/intake joint to push the carb back, maybe ½". Relocate the tank outlet. Different intake or carb.

I decided to cut/lower the intake.

I jigged it up and and first tried the disc sander...not the best. Then I made a cut on the table saw, and went back to the sander...the sander just wasn't getting it done. So I made another cut on the table saw, then just cleaned it up with some 320 grit on a flat table top.

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Discussion Starter #55
Well that worked. The tank clears just enough.
The carb is still about ⅛" or so above the engine.
And now I can just barely, R&R the topset for tuning...and I DO mean barely.
The carb currently has 20/115 jets in it.

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Discussion Starter #56
It's LOUD! I knew it would be. The spanglers muffler is the same as the $20 Chinese muffler that I was trying to quiet down a year or 2 back. Right now, the head pipe extends maybe 3" INTO the muffler...it needs to be cut off. That might help a tad..?
I also ordered up a db killer, silencer to try. I won't be able to tolerate the noise as it is now...I know that for sure. Hopefully it can be made better/quieter.

I rode it down the street, maybe 2 blocks, to the corner and back. This is going to be a whole new adventure I think. It's a strange little beast, with 3 wheels. I quickly remembered why they banned the three wheelers.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
All caught up on PM...
I have this same thread goin over on lilHonda, but I was behind here...so read back a bit.

We've gotten é-4 inches of new snow here over the last couple days. So yesterday after work, I cleared the drive and walks and porches. Then I warmed up my trike for a blast. I've only ridden it for 2, very short, and cold test runs, but it was ready.

Took it to the high school to slide around the parking lots. What a blast too. It took me a while to start getting comfortable with it. Trikes don't turn well on 3 wheels. You either tip them up onto 2 wheels, or you spin the rear end around with the throttle. I can't imagine a better clutch setup for this machine.
SS LS1, if you're reading this...this clutch/engine, in this ATC70, was your idea. Your idea of a better clutch. Manual clutch, AND still will idle in gear at low rpm. Perfect.

I can drift this thing all over the place on snow covered pavement. If I lose it...spin out or whatever...I just let off of the throttle and let it drop back to idle. OR, I can grab the clutch, slip it to bring the rpms back up. The way I was riding...basically just sliding everywhere I went...I was giving the clutch a workout. I think I'm geared a little too tall as is. I got into 4th gear a couple times...just to see if it worked :)

Accidentally blasted straight off of the pavement and into a mud bog once...got a little messy.

I'm a big ol pansy in the cold weather. Plus I don't have very good cold weather gear. About 40 minutes, in a snow storm, I was thoroughly frozen. I had a ton of fun for 40 minutes.

Before and after.

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Awesome build!! and thank you for posting your progress and findings with the different pull starters. Another option instead of using a pull starter is you can put a CL70 kick starter on it (curved kick starter fits perfect around the foot peg) and you can pull the kicker up with your hand to start it. To make your ride less sketchy add a 1.5" spacer to each of the rear wheels. Makes it so you have to actively try to flip it. But also makes your fenders useless and covers you in mud.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I bought 2 different types of "DB killers"...silencers, to try in my muffler(s). They are just too loud to tolerate. The first to arrive was the one with the honeycomb inside...it's too big to fit in these mufflers easily, and I didn't want to start cutting on the muffler innards before I could try style #2.
#2 has holes punched in the sides, and the end is capped. It installed pretty easily into the black muffler, and it sounds MUCH better to me. So I put one into the Spangler muffler too.

Installing it requires you to drill out the rivets and disassemble to muffler. Cut about ½" off of the inner metal tube, then put it back together with the silencer in the inlet end of the muffler.
Mine is ready to install for a test run.

The Spangler headpipe is slightly too big to slip into the black muffler, so I couldn't really run the black one unless I ream it out a fuzz...then it wouldn't fit the other headpipe properly.

Here are some pics. I'll post up my opinions after I run the modified muffler some. I'm hoping it's gonna sound good, and not restrict my 114cc engine. But mostly, I hope it's kinda quiet.

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Awesome! Can you post a link to the db killer that you used? the fmf on my 110 engine is awful loud as well.
 
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