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I dry fit the used Warmulas (sp) to see if it would leak down, and it did. So I need to see if the tire has a hole, or what. If the tire leaks I'll need to buy a tire or tube.
The correct name is WAMULASS. They are no longer available. They are by far my favourite tire I've used. I remember buying a brand new set from the dealer years ago (y)for my 82 and I wish I bought a few more sets. If you find them now they are pretty expensive. I was successful at patching a hole from the inside of the tire.

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Discussion Starter #22
If I use rtv, I'd just have one shot to get it right... Goop the first rim half and press it into the tire. Goop both rim halves in the o-ring grooves, AND the bead of the 2nd half, then quickly bolt it together and air it up. Then maybe reduce the air pressure and leave it sit so the rtv can set up.
If I get it wrong, I'd have to try to take it back apart, clean off all of the rtv, and start over.

Another option would be to just add inner tubes.
Maybe I just need to look into tubes... sure-fire, sounds better to me.
 

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Are they leaking around the bead or where the o-ring between the rims is supposed to be? This is best deal I have been able find on orings. But I would with a tube so you can forget about it.

 

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Discussion Starter #25
I ended up ordering up 3 tubes on Sunday. They cost me $41 shipped. They arrived yesterday.
I had to use spoons to get the one wheel back apart. Scratched up the paint which will open the door for quick rust, but, I'm moving on.
The tubes came with instructions. I read those, and followed them, because...I'm a reasonably smart guy, and it's always a good idea to follow the instructions, IMO.
Says to remove the nuts AND the washer, then reinstall after the wheel is assembled, and aired up. I would have left that washer to end up inside of the wheel, if not for the instructions.
I tucked in the tubes, and started the rim half with the stem hole. Greased the o-ring grooves, and soaped the bead. I didn't think the soap was really necessary, but it turned out that it probably WAS necessary.
Tires say 7lbs working pressure, and up to 20lbs to seat the bead. It took all 20lbs before I was satisfied that the beads were set.
The wheel bolts have a square shoulder, that fits into square holes in both rim halves. I used a right sized shaft to line up the holes as I tightened the nuts down. Then I mounted the wheels onto the bike before I aired the tires. I wanted ALL of the bolts to be in the rims before I aired them up to 20lbs.

I was all happy with myself too...because I couldn't remember if I had bent the...retainer pin, that holds the brake shoes in place. So I pulled the rear axle apart far enough to look before I mounted the wheel. I DID forget to bend it over, so I was happy that I took the time, and caught it.

I had to get the bearings and bits into the front hub, which went fine. So the hub goes on the left side of the wheel, and the bolts go in from the right side. Stem is on the right side. Axle bolt goes in from the left side. But...when I tried to install the axle bolt, it wouldn't go into the first bearing. Turns out that the new zinc plating was too thick, making the bolt too big. I spent about 45 minutes...at least, sanding the bolt with strips of 150 Emory cloth...sawing across that bolt before it would go in. Frustrating, but done now.
I need to look up some info. Torque specs for all 3 axle nuts...or the procedure when tightening them and pinning them. Maybe it's in my Clymers..?

Also, on Monday I ordered most of the electrical...12v and CDI swap stuff from dratv. And I ordered some right colored wire to use for my minibikes...and trikes :) That stuff is all due here today.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I just ordered a correct 85 seat cover today. I need to get a couple of new front tank mount rubbers.
I need to add my HL ears to the front fork. Start making a TL mounting bracket...think I'm just going to use a old Z50, tombstone type taillight. Also need to decide where to mount the keyswitch, and make a mounting bracket to use.
I guess I need to get my engine here too...out of the bike that's in storage.

BTW...anyone know if this cone shaped washer should point out, like I have it. Or in, toward the hole??

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Discussion Starter #27
I forgot to mention above...
Looking at how the rear wheels mount onto the hubs...the nuts AND washers barely miss the hub. If the washers are too big, they wouldn't allow the wheel to seat flat against the hub. The rim bolt nuts and washers I should say. Something to watch for if you're doing this job.
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Discussion Starter #28
Are they leaking around the bead or where the o-ring between the rims is supposed to be? This is best deal I have been able find on orings. But I would with a tube so you can forget about it.

It was leaking badly around the bead. I did use new o-rings that I got from Spanglers. I also have good ones that came with this bike too. But since I went with tubes, I wasn't too concerned with the rings in the end. They're just keeping water out at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Wifey seems to like the little trike. She's mentioned it a few times, calling it cute, or pretty. But last night, her and her sister were passing thru the garage on their way out...wifey says..."Oh, he put a ugly seat on it." Then she pointed to the ratty rear plastics and asked if I was putting "that" on there too.
I took my cue and ordered up new plastics last night
:)
$220 shipped and should be here by Wednesday. Yay!

But...the snow is here NOW. Sometime between 10PM and 2AM, we got 2-3 inches of fresh heavy snow, and it's not done yet either. I think we're expecting a good 6 inches. I'm afraid I've missed this opportunity...but I'm sure there will be other snow storms this season...right? Tough to predict the weather these days.

I wanted to mock up some more parts so I can decide where to run wires and mount gadgets.

Not sure where to put the key switch yet. There is a good big gap between the tank and steering stem..?
Was kinda planning to mount the switch under the tank like a hardtail Z, but the tank drops...maybe 2 inches or so past the frame. It would cover the switch unless the switch mount drops down low.

This oil cooler would mount up really slick tho...and easy.

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Discussion Starter #32
This battery box from Spanglers is pretty nice. One battery that I have is tall, and comes up to the top of the box. This battery is shorter. Both batteries leave a gap front to back...room for bolt heads, and padding. The box mounts to the grab bar mounting holes...over top of the grab bar. There is room enough to mount...maybe the reg/rec to the back side of the battery box, or on the frame, behind the box.
If you look close at the end of the box, there are tabs cut out that you can bend out for hanging the CDI and reg/rec too. It's the same/similar shape to the Honda tabs.

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The CT70 wire harness is going to work out very well...I shouldn't need to change the location of any of the plugs to work on the ATC70 frame. I'll just have to add/change the plugs to work with 12v and CDI ignition.

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I traced the rear brake switch tab from a CT70 so I can make one to weld on.

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Tank is painted. Looks good from about 6 feet.. The rustoleum is a pretty good match to the original plastics.

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Discussion Starter #36
Do you know how this will hold up to gas spilling on it? Or you going to clear coat over it?
In my experience, Rust-Oleum is not very resistant to gasoline. I don't think I'd use it for a bike that I was building for keeps. But maybe there is a clearcoat that would be compatible with the Rust-Oleum, AND be able to resist fuel.
I tried painting over Rust-Oleum with some Duplicolor color match paint once... The Duplicolor caused the Rust-Oleum to crinkle and wrinkle, really badly. So I would want to test the clear on a sample before spraying it over good paint.
Maybe I'll spray a sample piece with this red, then put some gasoline on it for a test. I'll do that and post up what I find.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Been doing at least a little bit of work on this every day. I've mounted a couple of my electrical things, and I think I have a plan for the rest of them. I'm working on a ignition switch bracket that's a little longer than a original hardtail bracket. And I have my tracing of the brake light switch bracket.
My plastics are due here on Monday. I ordered a 90s CT70 rubber "suspension" that I think (hope) I can make work with the dratv CDI. Probably a week out, for that.
My motor is hangin in there, but I'll probably drop it back out before I weld the brackets and touch up paint. The carb/intake might work as is. It's pretty close at the top, and I forgot to try removing the topset while it was mounted. If I can pull the slide out and get it back in without having to remove the carb from the engine...I'll be good with that.
Haven't tried fitting the foot bar, or the exhaust yet. Probably should do that while the motor is in there.
The clutch cable that came with the clutch cover kit is gonna work. I just had to modify the original clutch lever slightly. Otherwise, the length and all seems good... I'm getting pretty lucky here with things fitting, and working, fairly easily...(knockin on wood.)
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Discussion Starter #38
I got a really good start on my wire harness yesterday. And I have a couple of my brackets made, almost ready to weld on and paint.

I had the ignition switch mount laid out wrong at first...almost goofed and cut it the same size as my original piece/pattern.

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This is the second time I've had to rebuild a wire harness. I kinda like it. It really forces you to have to sort out how things work. VERY good learning experience. Maybe if I do it 5 more times, it'll stick, and I'll have it ALL figured out
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Been a few days since I've been able to work on my wire harness, but I am making progress with my taillight bracket.
I wasn't happy with the Z50 style taillight.
I read that Honda had offered a optional light kit for early ATC70s which used a ATC 90 taillight with a bolt on bracket. So I picked up a taillight, and I'm kinda copying the bracket.
The TL is a TL only...no brake light provisions. So I'm thinking of rigging it up with a couple tiny LED light...bulbs/diodes. One for TL, one for BL. But that might end up being more trouble than it's worth.

I'm pretty proud of my TL bracket so far tho.

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Hey Kirrby, there is a way to make any single filament tail light into a brake/running light. Two diodes and a 100 Ohm resistor and some soldering. Revival Cycles in Austin carries them for about 8 bucks, or if you want to roll your own, they are pretty cheap and easy to do (parts list is less than a buck.) Make a "Y" with two wires, with zener diodes on each side, and the resistor on one leg of the Y. The resistor leg goes to the running light wire from the harness, the other to brake light wire from the harness, and the single side of the y goes to the tail light power. I have done it numerous times and can say it works great (especially with LED's.)
 
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