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Discussion Starter #1
A couple years ago, after seeing SS LS1's videos, playing in the snow, I decided I needed to build a ATC70 so I could have something to ride in the off season. Something that would run the Honda horizontal engine that I'm familiar with.
I ended up buying a couple of beat bikes, and I also swapped some good Z50 parts for some really nice ATC70 parts. I ended up with about 2½ bikes worth of parts.
I've done a lot of reading about what others have done with their ATC70s. So I ordered up the pegs and foot brake from Spanglers. Plus the battery box, and HL ears, and some bearings and other bits.
I just want to get this thing together fairly quickly, so I can ride it a little if we ever get some snow. Once I have some time with it, I can decide if anything needs to be changed up, or improved. Then I might try to make it look...better. I know I still need new plastics, and a seat at the minimum...wheels tires bars...probably.

I'll get some pics posted tonight. I wanted to get this thread started...but I have made some progress already.
 

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I took mine to the snow for the first time on new years. Get an oil cooler too. Alot of wheel spin and high rpms. Running duro tires and 110 engine she did okay. But not great as I could not get good traction to pick up any speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Damn those oil coolers!
Lol. I was kinda hoping to get away without one for a cold weather machine. But I will heed your warning...add a dang cooler I spose.

I've made a lot more progress now. I need to catch this thread up to where I'm at, then it'll be easier to KEEP it updated. I've been posting over on lilHonda, but I've neglected this thread.

Here's some of what I'm starting with.
I only need a couple parts off of the beater bikes. I may end up making one of them run after I get this project together.
The parts in the boxes are new, and some that were cleaned up by the PO.
The nicer beater is a 1980. The one with no wheels or engine on it is a 85. Both came with motors tho.

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Discussion Starter #4
The frame I'm using was cleaned up and painted by the PO. He had started rebuilding this 85 ATC and had painted stuff, re-zinced nuts bolts and washers. I'll be using as many of those parts as I can.

I used a speed square to scribe a straight line down the center of the frame using a utility knife. I used this mark to line up the frame so I could weld it back together straight. I centered my cut between the welded on frame gussets, then cut the frame using a big tubing cutter. It's a tough cut with a tubing cutter, but gives a great result.
I filed the burrs off so I could get a good I.D. measurement.

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Discussion Starter #5
The OD of the frame is 2".
The ID is 1.8"
I wanted a 2" stretch.
Time was/is at a premium. Sidetracking my Xmas shopping, I stopped into Alro Steel and had them cut me four, 15" long pieces of round 2" tubing... it wasn't cheap. $120 I think.
Then followed a lead to a machine shop to get a couple of them turned on a CNC lathe...it wasn't too cheap either at 45 beans per. Figure $75 each, all in. I wanted 4. Ended up with 2, plus 2 Xtra blanks. Probably less than 3hrs of my valuable time to get the "stretch tubes" made and paid.

1.8 inches worked out very well. Not too tight. Not loose either. Any rust inside of the frame will have to be cleaned up. I glued extensions on to a small stone wheel, and a 2" flap wheel, so I could reach deep into the frame with them.
I drilled four, ⅜" holes thru each "half" of the frame to use for "slug welds" ? "plug welds" ? Anyway...8 holes total, and knocked the burrs off inside of the frame.
I ended up cutting my stretch tube a little shorter on the front end. The original frame is smashed a little out of round where it welds to the head tube. Plus, I wanted my stretch tube to stop short of where I would be drilling for the relocated front tank mount.
I'll have to get some better pics of the "stretch tube" and post them up later.

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Discussion Starter #6
In a big ol rush, I drug out my welder and cranked it up fast and hot. Tacked it, used my scribe line to line it up, tacked it, then welded it all up. Did some grinding and touched up welds where I missed. Then more grinding...trying not to remove too much metal from the .1" thick frame tube. I was using a flap disc in a 4" angle grinder.
A better welder would have made better welds that would require less grinding...I'm not talking about the machine, I'm talking about me. The next time I do a job like this...I'll try a little harder to get set up right, and make neat welds. And hopefully by then I'll just be better at it in general. But I'm confident I got a good strong stretch here.
Then I drilled a couple of ½" holes, 2" back, for the relocated front tank mount. Cut off and filled in the old mounts. More grinding. A little filing and sanding. It was 35° that day. I had a can of black Rust-Oleum. I tossed the frame up on my tailgate and hosed the area with a layer of protection. Then sat it in front of my big torch for a little while to cook it up nice
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here's a pic of the "stretch tube" and the xtended Burr getters. Again, the dimensions on the stretch tube are, 2” O.D. with ¼" wall thickness, 15 long, turned down to 1.8" each end.
I ended up cutting almost 2" off of the end that went toward the front of the bike.
IMG_20200105_171302942.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Couple hours here, a few hours there.
I got the holes and slot done for the new brake pedal. The kit comes with aluminum templates that work well. Mount them on the frame using existing threaded holes, mark the holes (with a scribe), find centers (with compass/calipers), punch centers, drill holes...stepping up to the correct size...7/16 for the brake pedal bolt, and around 5/8 for the link arm slot. Then I cut the straight section with a Dremel cutting wheel, and smoothed/shaped everything with the Dremel drum sander. The brake pedal kit is pretty slick and seems nice. I forgot to put the return spring on there before I took the pics.
Today I got the old rear bearings and seals out, cleaned up the races, installed the bearings, but had a question about the seals. I messaged Spanglers...got a reply very quickly from them...good folks over there IMO.
The new bearing kit came with 3 different seals. Original seals were identical. Soo...what goes where?? Spanglers says the seal with no lip goes on the brake drum side. The seal with the shorter lip goes on the sprocket side. Seal with long lip is extra and unused on the ATC70s.
Since I had looked everything over pretty close, that answer made good sense to me.
The more I work on this bike the more I like it, and the more I'm excited about it. Good ol Honda!

It looks like a CT70 wire harness will lay in there about the right length, and everything will terminate in good/acceptable spots. But I'll have to modify a old...probably K0 harness to work with my 12V CDI engine. Hope to make pretty short work of that, but I need to order some parts...CDI, coil, reg/rec some bulbs and wire terminals and such. I'm thinking a repop K1 Z50 ignition switch might be the ticket for a 3 wheeler. Keyswitch security, small as it is, can't hurt, might help, and I will like it if nothing else.
Headlight on...no dimmer or on/off switch. Taillight, brakelight, neutral light, and that's it. No kill switch either...I have no use for them when there's a keyswitch.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Last night I spent far longer than should have been necessary getting the seals in, and the rear axle and brakes installed and working. There isn't any good clear instructions in the Clymers, or on on the Honda parts fiches. I initially installed the top brake shoe mount from the outside of the frame, towards the inside of the frame. It doesn't work when you do it that way. lol. Didn't figure it out until I tried installing the brake drum. Spent a lot of time trying to figure out where to put the big special washer too. Brake side or sprocket side??

Well the big washer goes on the sprocket side. It sticks into the seal and the flat side rides against the sprocket.
Both of the brake shoe brackets install from inside of the frame.
The little brake actuator arm goes on so the angle of the arm leans toward the center of the bike. There are punch marks on both the arm, and the splined shaft...line them up when you install the arm. Before installing the arm, there is a little felt seal that goes on to the splined shaft, AND don't forget to install the brake return spring when you install the actuator arm...like I did.
Hook the brake shoes together with the springs, then pull the bottom open and put the bottom in place, then the top. I'll bet you could change out the brake shoes pretty easily on this trike.
I greased the rear axle, pretty much end to end. I figure it might fight rust, if nothing else.

The rear axle setup added a lot of weight to my frame assembly. This thing is gonna be pretty heavy by the time I get it complete.

The nut on the new brake pedal shaft/mount ends up just under the chain tensioner, and is covered by the chain guard. But, I may have that bolt installed the wrong way. The big locknut might rub on the chain. I'm thinking the bolt should be installed from the left side of the bike, with the nut on the brake pedal side. I need to look back at Spanglers pictures...see if it shows.

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Discussion Starter #12
IMG_20200109_201827061.jpg

Front forks are mounted.
I started checking out the wheels and tires. I should have had these figured out before now, but...I have questions.
The clymers says to coat the rubber o-ring with grease and install it in the grove between the wheel halves. Then use dishsoap, or some tire bead liquid (can't remember what they called it) when seating the tire bead.

But, how does planetminis recommend doing ATC70 wheels and tires??
It seems like I read somewhere that putting slime into the tires is a good idea. Is it? Do I need to use any better sealant or anything on the o-ring or tire beads?? Silicone or rtv?

My wheels are used, but clean and painted. 2 new tires and one good original.
I'd like to mount the tires one time right. I'd appreciate some advice.
 

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But, how does planetminis recommend doing ATC70 wheels and tires??
It seems like I read somewhere that putting slime into the tires is a good idea. Is it? Do I need to use any better sealant or anything on the o-ring or tire beads?? Silicone or rtv?

My wheels are used, but clean and painted. 2 new tires and one good original.
I'd like to mount the tires one time right. I'd appreciate some advice.
Kirrbby... very cool thread. Thanks for sharing it.(y)
Been a while but what I did was put grease on the rim seal (that's it nothing else) so it stays in the groove and doesn't move.
The grease will stick the round rim seal in place in the groove on the rim. Put a bit of soap on the tire beads. Push the rim halfs between the tires and bolt them together one at a time. Try your best not to disrupt the seal. The bolts have a square lock that keeps them in place. Inflate the tire and the tire beads will slowly seal around the rim. A lot like Z50 wheels but they don't have the big round seal. I hope this makes sense to you. I think they only hold like 3-5 psi. I've never had one leak where I had to use rtv sealer.
tmas
 

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Build looks great!! Keep the pics coming! For the wheels I would clean them up as much as possible and maybe clearcoat or paint the inside of them to help with rust. You can also get replacement orings at rockymountainatv or partzilla etc. I reused my oring and used grease and havent had any issues with leaking after 2ish years of hard riding.
 

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Great build thread! I picked up a few ATC70s recently - am looking forward to tearing into them this winter.
Keep the pics coming - they are appreciated. And I might steal your idea for a trike stand - that is awesome!
 

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Thanks for the replies guys. I'll go with it.
I dry fit the used Warmulas (sp) to see if it would leak down, and it did. So I need to see if the tire has a hole, or what. If the tire leaks I'll need to buy a tire or tube. Or I could swap the best tire off of #1 beater. I should probably do that anyway. It looks good and is currently holding air.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have 3 different tanks. The one on the beater leaks slowly, and has shallow fork dents up front. Then there are 2 that have been Bondo'd up and primed. One was lined with Kreem, and the Kreem looks a little too thin in spots. The other was treated with Redcoat and it looks verry heavy and goopy inside. I suspect there is Redcoat in the bungs for the fuel lines too. I'm thinking maybe I should pick up some Kreem and do a second treatment on that tank. I don't know how much Bondo is on it, but it looks pretty decent on the outside. I'll use it for temporary, then fix up the leaker to swap on later. That way I can know just what I have.
 

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Looking good Kirrbby!
I really like the rear foot brake kit. It will be much nicer than the lever/cable IMHO.
Keep it up!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks guys.
Well I put my used tire on a rim and aired it up to see if it would hold. It leaks down pretty quickly around the bead. No holes in the tire itself. These rims have some pretty bad pitting that was cleaned up and painted. But there is a lot of missing metal. I'm sure that is what's causing the leaks. I don't want to have to buy wheels just yet, so I'm gonna have to...probably put some goop around the tire beads when I put them on the rims. I don't know what goop to use tho. I'm thinking rtv sealant.??

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