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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey All! Hopefully there are still some folks here? If you're an old schooler here on PM, then you've likely seen my builds? If you haven't? Check them out! I love to build and rebuild my bikes, and doc them here to help the next guy out- maybe give you guys some ideas? Let you know what works, and what doesn't? I'll be working with my kicker 150F this winter. I've had this bike since 2009 and I've literally ridden the living $h!t out of her! Gotta have more than 1500 hours on it? So the plan is as follows:
  • Engine rebuild. This engine goes 4 seasons between rebuilds. I've had it apart several times before, and when you keep them stock, they run and run. The weak link is both third gears. Counter and main shaft. After 4 years of abuse. they start getting notchy and miss shifts. Might as well pull it all apart and replace them while the bike is in pieces to insure that I won't have a mid season failure. Other than that, she'll get a piston, rings, timing chain, and clutch plates. Other than those items, nothing else seems to wear in these engines unless you run them low on oil, and I never have. On a side note- you'll want to invest in the Motion Pro centrifugal oil filter spanner tool, or you won't be able to get it off. I replace the nut every time I take it off, along with the clutch basket nut. Cheap insurance.
  • Light frame mods and powdercoat. If you saw my "150/230F Homologation Project" thread in this forum, then you may remember that I beefed up the frame on that bike in a few spots. The rear brake stopper is a weak area, the wimpy wire clutch cable guide, and the janky cable holders by the head tube. I added some welds in a few other spots as well, but those are the trouble areas. This bike is my stock mod thrasher, so I won't do the cable holders. I will address the other problem areas I described though as you'll see. I run Ebay frames and keep the frames that I have the titles to shelved. It'd be a shame to hack those up. After the fab work, the frame will get sent to Ace Powdercoating. They're a local outfit here in Ohio, and their work is top notch.
  • New rear rim and spokes. 12 years of abuse took it's toll on the rear wheel. The hub is fine, but the rim is beat and the spokes are stretched. I'll be lacing up a new stock rim and spokes. Hopefully I'll get another decade out of it.
  • Forks are getting ready to go out to Bruce's Suspension for damping rod mods and a rebuild. The stock rear shock has had the John Hlebo mod, and it will get sent out for an oil change and reseal/charge.
  • I'll likely get new plastic and graphics. Nothing wrong with the stock look, but the shrouds are discontinued, so I wanted to box them up to save them. If you guys have any ideas for colors or graphics- post up pics. I'd like to see what you come up with. I'll be updating this thread as I go. so stay tuned. --L*64
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Been working a little bit. Took the springs out of the forks, drained the oil, collapsed them, and boxed them up. Later today they'll be on their way to Bruce's Suspension for a rebuild and damping rod mods. If they just needed bushings, seals, and oil- I can do that myself. It's the damping rod mods that I need Bruce for. Ordered all the engine parts, including two additional sets of 3rd gears. I can guarantee that they'll soon be discontinued- so I figured that I may as well stock up. Got the rear wheel laced up. I have to put it on the truing stand, and have the tire put on yet. Wheels are a funny thing. You don't really think they'll be a big expense. Once you order a rim... spokes and nipples... a tube, tire, rim lock.... you'll have 300 damn dollars into each wheel, or more. Been working on three projects at once for now. My 110, KLX140 project, and this one. I'll get cooking more on this one next week.
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Since this bike is a kicker- it doesn't need the key switch. You can simply unplug it from the harness, and kickstart your bike. I haven't ran a key in years, and I'm always a little annoyed with the empty round key switch frame on the top triple clamp. I have several sets of triple clamps, including one that has a cracked key switch frame. I'm going to cut it off, and shave it with a grinder. It'll look like it was never there. I'll post a pic in the next few days. --L*64
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I got my new rear rim laced, trued, and the tire mounted up. Ran all new spokes and nipples. I've found that the stock rims work really well on these bikes. They lace up true, and they'll take a beating. I haven't looked to see if Tusk makes rims for this bike, but if they did- I'd try them out. Tusk is the Rocky Mountain ATV brand. I'm trying them out on my KLX140 project- so far, so good.

I got my forks back from Bruce Triplett. They got a full rebuild with seals, bushings, and oil, along with Bruce's damping rod mods.

Here are the pix of the top clamp with the key ring shaved off. Came out pretty good. Gotta find a paint that will match it.

Frame is headed to the metal fab shop this week for some light mods, then off to powdercoat. Having a beefier rear brake stop welded up, and the flimsy clutch cable holder as well. I'll post up when that's done. Til then! --L*64
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Update. So I pulled the engine out last week so it could get new third gears, a top end, and a new set of clutch plates. When we got it all apart- sure enough only one of the third gears was beat up. Good news. Problem is that 4th on the main shaft was hunked.... and I didn't have a new one to put back in. Found a clean used one on EBay, and the damn thing was supposed to be here today. Sure enough..... USPS dropped the ball as usual. So I'm waiting on that.
Meanwhile- I figured that I'd use the down time to rejet the carb down from a 112 main, to a 110. Oddly, the 110 (which is the OEM Honda jet) is about 5mm longer than the 112 I had in there?? I figured since it was so long, I'd ditch the sometimes troublesome cone shaped thingy that I think is there to keep gas from sloshing? The base of the jet sticks out below it, so I didn't see the point? I'll keep you guys posted on how that works out. I was also actually thinking about putting the snorkel back in the airbox too. I can't tell the difference with or without it, other than that without it- there tends to be a gang of dirt in the airbox after every ride.
So part of doing a rebuild, is that you get to completely scrub your bike down before reassembly. They seem to like that. I guess it makes them feel new again? Got that done last night too.
Now- I have another frame sitting around that's getting fab work and powdercoated. I was hoping to switch to that frame, but the fabricator is taking awhile to get it done, and there's a three week wait to get it powdered. I wanna ride this bike next week, so I'll get the frame done, put it on a shelf, and switch it all over next winter. Nothing wrong with this frame for now.
I got the newly Bruce Triplett modded and rebuilt forks on last night, along with a new brake disc. The old one worked, but it had a slight bend in it. After 13 years of use- I figured a new disc was in order. No?
Let's hope that USPS gets me that damn gear tomorrow so we can wrap this motor up. Tonight's festivities include dismantling the rear end, and cleaning/greasing the linkage bearings. Progress! --L*64
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Got the engine back together last night. The crazy thing- is that the top end was barely worn out?? She's been flogged for 4 years, and oddly, the piston and cylinder didn't show much wear at all. I do change the oil every three rides and keep the filter clean. On these bikes- the tranny gears are the issue. I replaced third gear on the main shaft, and fourth on the output shaft. I put new rings on the old piston, new clutch metals and fibers, replaced the timing chain, adjusted the valves (exhuast was fine, intake was a bit tight).... and called it good. --L*64
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got the engine back in and everything reconnected. All the engine mounts and hardware went through a kerosene bath prior to reassembly with some blue Loctite. In order to do a really nice job- set a few hours aside for the engine install. All that's left now is the swinger and linkage bearings. Meant to get them done last week, but I got preoccupied with the engine rebuild. --L*64
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Got the linkage and swinger apart and back together. Ran everything through the kerosene bath. Regreased all the linkage pieces and the swingarm pivot with Mobil 1. Note the schrader valve at the top of the stock shock. I had it modded by John Hlebo awhile ago. I may have her all back together and ready to ride tonite. --L*64
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Well Gang- calling the re-build done.... for now anyway. Had her at the track last night, and she ran beautifully. I'll update this thread once I get her other frame done and powdered. You can check back here periodically. This 150F is definitely one of my favorite bikes of all time! Due to parts starting to become scarce- she'll be splitting her riding time with my '21 KLX140. That project is being doc'd in the Bigger Minis forum. Check it out and follow that build as well. Happy riding to you all- and so long for now. I'll leave you with a pic of her all finished. I snapped a quick parting shot for you guys last nite as my gorgeous GF and I were loading her up and heading to the track. Not looking too bad for an '05? --L*64
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