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I was minding my own business when this popped up a few minutes from my house. Advertised as a 1985 but the decals and all down shift pattern make me think its an 84. Would have been cool to have the lighting coil. Its missing the pull start plus someone was kind enough to break off two fasteners in the side cover.

The carbs going for a swim in the ultra sonic, tank needs cleaning, suspect I will find a zillion pinholes. Motor turns over but with some sounds I didnt like. It did pass the thumb compression check.

The plan is to get it running, then maybe a CDI conversion. From there I will see if I want to dive into cosmetics (but once running will source the correct seat.
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Nice find Greg.Looks complete..I hope the tank is okay..Unfortunately stock Honda pullstarters go for big money but HERE...is a cheaper replacement .
They even have new seat pans, foam and covers. HERE TOO
tmas
 

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Welcome to the ATC addiction! Save your time and money and get a Chinese 125 or 140 to drop in. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nice find Greg.Looks complete..I hope the tank is okay..Unfortunately stock Honda pullstarters go for big money but HERE...is a cheaper replacement .
They even have new seat pans, foam and covers. HERE TOO
tmas
Thanks Todd, I just ordered a bunch of goodies from him. I hope the fires in CA stay away from his place. The area around his shop has been getting nailed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Welcome to the ATC addiction! Save your time and money and get a Chinese 125 or 140 to drop in. :)
Thanks Quinc, It might come to that but first I have to try the slow/painful/expensive way first. I just never learn.

It would be smarter to just by a clean example but I am bored and want to learn.
 

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Thanks Quinc, It might come to that but first I have to try the slow/painful/expensive way first. I just never learn.

It would be smarter to just by a clean example but I am bored and want to learn.

You cant fully appreciate going the easy way until you do it the hard way. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Still hunting for spark, thing I have tried:

1. Kill switch works, tried unplugging.
2. Cleaned grounds on frame and coil, black wire to coil.
3. Testing coil, primary is 1.6 ohms from spade terminal to ground, from ground to plug cap is 13.4k ohms, 8.5 ohms without cap.
4. Nuetral switch wire is disconnected from switch, tried grounding it.
5. Timing verified, points set at .014
6. Put meter on black wire from stator and ground, spun flywheel by hand, meter changed.

Does anyone have specs to verify condensor, windings of stator?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks, I did find that from the sticky. I am good now but must have missed those values. I did see a post from you years ago on how to test the coil with different screen shots. Maybe owners manual vs service manual.

BTW, I liked the instructions to the dealerships to put tape over the early stickers!

I just pulled the carb and the float bowl and it is the worst I have seen. Running it through the cleaner now so I will know more in a few...And my parts shipped from Hondaatc70.com🤘.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I guess I can add my name to the list of owners with metal gas tank issues. I am fairly handy with a TIG torch but bridging a gap that large with thin contaminated metal is beyond my skill set. I ordered a plastic tank but might try some soldering.

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I guess I can add my name to the list of owners with metal gas tank issues. I am fairly handy with a TIG torch but bridging a gap that large with thin contaminated metal is beyond my skill set. I ordered a plastic tank but might try some soldering.

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I like to braze the holes shut with flux coated rods from depot. Lincoln brand i think. Then I follow up with red kote tank liner and never look back. And I've fixed honda fourtrax tanks with Way bigger holes than that. I've even crushed 1157 light bulbs just for the brass base to use as patch panels. Just make sure they have been out of fuel and open for a long while before flame is applied.
 

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I like to braze the holes shut with flux coated rods from depot. Lincoln brand i think. Then I follow up with red kote tank liner and never look back. And I've fixed honda fourtrax tanks with Way bigger holes than that. I've even crushed 1157 light bulbs just for the brass base to use as patch panels. Just make sure they have been out of fuel and open for a long while before flame is applied.
Good suggestion. Some people forego the brazing and just epoxy up the tank with electrical tape sealing the holes. I have done this myself and can testify it works. I can't say what it does past three years, as the bike was sold at that point.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the help gentlemen, much appreciated. I put the the tank on the back burner until I know more about the condition of this motor although I did try some aircraft stripper but the old paint stood its ground for the most part. I miss the good old days when chemicals were dangerous but worked!

The more time I spend tinkering with thing it becomes clear its lived a hard life. There are signs of kid mechanic everywhere like stripped/incorrect fasteners.

I did get it running and the bottom end is pretty noisy. I can push/pull on the flywheel and get more play than I have ever experienced after a dozen or so motors.
I also now realize connecting by neutral switch might have been fun, but it was a coincidence I started getting spark. I rebuilt the stator and had spark. Got it running and lost spark again. I have cleaned grounds, tried a different coil, different plug, plug caps, tried test leads across the one foot of remaining black wire between coil and stator all to no avail.

I am at the point where I am stumped by a one wire wiring harness, lol!

I also dont get chain tensioner unless I have different sized sprockets or a couple too many links. Tensioner is all the way up towards the seat and there is a ton if slop. The chain does go above the tensioner correct?
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