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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. I'm rebuilding a 1982 honda XR80 carb (keihin carb pc10c) and the bulbs of the float are crushed:

bent-float-1.jpg bent-float-2.jpg

The float level is to spec. The float needle doesn't seem to stick when I move the float by hand. The jets are new. The bike starts and runs so so, but won't idle at all. No adjustments help. And I'm getting some gas coming out of the overflow once in a while.

Could those bent floats cause them to be less buoyant and therefore flood the engine? I'm going to order a new one anyway but I wanted some feedback. Thanks.

CP
 

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Believe it or not, you can probably fix that by reversing how it happened. That is a classic appearance of an incorrectly soldered float. It was heated too much, then that small dot of solder was placed over the hole to seal it, and when it cooled, it contracted. There is also the possibility some liquid was inside it as well, and would make it even worse. The way I would try to fix it is to take a soldering iron and touch it to the body of the float. don't stay in just one place, but move the tip every so often to spread the heat. If it expands back, touch the tip to where the dot of solder is to open the hole. Before you solder it back up, use a heat gun to dry it out good on the inside. Let it cool completely before sealing the hole. Seal the hole, applying as little heat as possible ( to avoid the same problem happening again.) If the first method doesn't work, you can put a couple drops of water inside, warm everything a little, solder the hole shut, then heat with the solder iron or heat gun till it expands. Be sure to open the hole as soon as it expands, waiting even a few seconds and it will start sucking in. Of course you will have to dry it again before sealing it. Hope that helps.
 

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Sounds like a good plan thanks. Question about re-sealing : would a little JB Weld work to seal it up? The JB Weld website claims that contact with gasoline is OK once the material has cured. I suppose if I'm using a soldering iron anyway to apply heat like you suggest then I might as well solder. But JB Weld is a little easier to control in my opinion.

Thanks!
 

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Sounds like a good plan thanks. Question about re-sealing : would a little JB Weld work to seal it up? The JB Weld website claims that contact with gasoline is OK once the material has cured. I suppose if I'm using a soldering iron anyway to apply heat like you suggest then I might as well solder. But JB Weld is a little easier to control in my opinion.

Thanks!
Don't know about JB Weld when immersed in gas. I have tried it on a carb bowl repair and it lasted a very short time. You will find the hole small and easy to fill. If the solder does not want to come out of the hole when you heat it up, poke a paperclip through, or blow sharply while its hot to blow it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well that worked perfectly, thanks for the tip! Reshaped, soldered, popped it in, and it's idling spot on. Still a little boggy when I snap the throttle, so it's onto some carb tuning.

CP
 

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Well that worked perfectly, thanks for the tip! Reshaped, soldered, popped it in, and it's idling spot on. Still a little boggy when I snap the throttle, so it's onto some carb tuning.

CP
Glad to hear it worked for you! Always a good feeling when a bad part turns back into a good one.
 
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