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Discussion Starter #42
Looking to confirm the year of my bike, I spent some time online reading and finding serial numbers.

My bike is indeed a 1972, SS50E, it is the last year of the Honda SS50E "Honda 67" in Vietnam, after that the stamp was SS50V. I found a bike frame from 1971 in the 200xxx so mine being in the 300xxx must be the last year then, 1972.

It`s so confusing with Honda as in the same time in Europe, the frames looked different, not to mntion the tank, but I never trusted the tank shape was original, I wouldn`t have been surprised to find out the bike was an earlier one built to look older.

Anyway, hurricane Douglas is coming, might loose internet in a bit but I have ordered the 117CC stroker kit #6 from Tbolt Usa, with a high flow oil pump and a billet clutch basket. Hopefully my springs will be strong enough, it was supposed to be an upgraded clutch already...

Imma upload pics of a cool bike that was sold recently locally at auction from The Brewseum in Honolulu. Sadly it closed down.
It was a cool WW2 museum with a bunch of memorabilia and had this Vietnamese tricycle with a Honda engine I had noticed while drinking beers. Teak cargo area too. Kinda useless here but I would have loved to have disposable income and buy it and go surfing with it in town just for fun. It sold for less than $2k, something like 1900 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #48

I`m adding this cool article about mopeds in Vietnam pre-1975, it features the SS50 and a few Motobecane, a French brand I`m well familiar with as I started my moped life working on them :D
The first one was an old ?1965? Blue 88 Motobecane that was sitting in the streets below my appartment, bought for the equivalent of today`s 12 bucks from my shaddy Cape Verdean neighbor, we cut the lock, I never knew if it was really his. :unsure:
We pushed it around the block for a long while trying to start it as one or 2 pedals were missing I recall ( back in 1997), but it never started.
No major conrod play, I took it anyway...
My brother and I split the engine and replaced the crank bearings, he taught me how to work on these simple 2T engines, we got it running in no time. Sold it 10 times the purchase price, a bargain these days... Very fond memories! 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Aloha all!

I received a couple weeks ago my chinese transmissions, I posted some in the classifieds.
I sent one on the mainland to get REM polished. Should be smooth !!
The same day, I received my 117cc stroker kit #6 from T-Bolt USA.
I took a bunch of helpful measurements as the least I can say is their description is very minimalistic, and with Covid-19, all my questions were never answered.
I took the plunge as I heard the quality is better than the cheaper 50 Caliber Racing kit, I thought they were sourcing the same parts to make a kit.
Upon opening and inspecting the packages ( very well packed BTW), I felt better about this choice, and I can be added to the list of people that praise TBolt for their quality products and customer service ( well, I haven`t yet benefited about the customer service but I have no doubt about it being great).
All products are specifically made for TBolt (Edit: made for TB Parts) in Taiwan, besides maybe the carburettor, but it does get its own packaging.
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Crankshaft TBW0319 with Japanese NTN brand bearings TMB304CS10 like found in this SYM manual Sym MB10A7-A series Service Manual (Page 130 of 219) | ManualsLib

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CDI snout
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The rod head outer dimensions are 19mm thick x 14mm wide ( width between the flat machined left and right sides)
It is 12.40 mm at its most narrow spot and 5.40 mm thick .
More pics coming.
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Now the famous race head TBW0385 on which I couldn`t get any technical info, so hopefully that can help somebody doing research. The valves are 22mm exhaust and 25mm intake ( actually a hair smaller but numbers rounded up).
The cast is not the prettiest but that`s not what matters and original ones were as rough if not worse anyway.
The cam cover hole diameter is 62mm.
The machining is good but never trust anybody and inspect thoroughly.
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A little machining shaving, or burr ( I`m not sure of the technical term in english) is about to fall off in the engine where my index is pointing. Easy cleaning with a sharp blade.
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Proprietary valves, like almost everything.
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The exhaust hole size is 20mm

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I don`t like these valve retainer keys...
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The intake is slightly ported, the hole is 19mm at the most narrow spot. 22mm port.
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Discussion Starter #51
TBW300 performance camshaft. The bearings and dimensions are nothing like the one I got a while back and never used.
IMG_3413.JPG

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Chinese bearings on the camshaft, 6903Z bearing on the small end, with the cover off on the outer end.
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Common chinese rockers, I have seen these JX markings before. They got polished.
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I got a billet clutch basket, it is a marvelous piece of CNC machining
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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
54mm aluminum cylinder with steel sleeve. I saw some vertical marks in them, prolly when they test fit the assembly somehow. They are not deep but they are definitely noticeable and not pretty.
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I`m pretty concerned about the piston to cylinder clearance,I`m gonna cross my fingers on that one as I have no clearance numbers to relate to ...

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54mm piston TBW0790, very well made.
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The Cylinder head dome is 50mm x 39mm at the visible machined steps/rings
The piston has a 5mm high dome
The piston pin is 13mm
The piston different dome steps are, from upper to lower, 11.50mm diameter, then 36mm, then 45mm then it`s the piston diameter at 54mm mesured at the squirt below the piston rings.
 

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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
Oil pump TBW0225
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Again, always check for crap, there`s another bit of aluminum about to fall off in the gears, at 4 o`clock in the left machined circle next to the gears.
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The carburettor diameter is 27.75mm ID at the manifold.
The intake manifold is 29.50mm ID at the carb.
The intake manifold is 22mm ID at the head, the head is slightly ported to match the 22mm, but the cast hole in the head is 19mm.

The carburettor comes with extra jets.

I had a lot of pitting on the engine case, so I filled them with JB weld at the gasket surfaces. I`ve done that on Watercooled Flat 4 VW engines, it works amazingly well. Some sanding required, I already cut the overflown epoxy when it was still soft with a razor blade to shape the edges.
I also had a corner from a bolt hole missing, so I inserted a silicone tube in the hole and poured epoxy outside to fix it. I still gotta sand it down.
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This is the upper rear corner on the clutch cover side, it was so destroyed, I epoxied a M6 threaded rod that I will cut later to be a permanent stud. There used to be a hole there,and it wasn`t leaking, so that will do. Same thing, gotta sand it down to look pretty.
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Discussion Starter #55
That one footpeg mounting hole seems to have had a previous repair as well.
Yes it did, with brass insert.
What is crazy is it looks like the other brass inserts for transmission snout bearings.

My chinese transmission came back from my buddy who rebuilds VW transaxles, I sent it out to be REM polished.
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I'll try to assemble the engine this weekend with my GF to show her how a combustion engine works :)
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Alright, today is the big day. All good intentions, hitting a sudden wall hard :ROFLMAO:

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New transmission 6203 bearings , NSK made in Japan. They were 6203 ZZ so I popped the steel covers off. There`s a good amount of grease from factory in them.
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I checked on the neutral switch contact that the shift drum was in neutral
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I don`t like working with instructions or a manual, I only look into them if I have an issue and for torque settings.
I like figuring out by myself, better for learning and develops your sense of observation.
The shift drum was fairly easy to figure out.This is in neutral position.
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Now sh!t went sour from there, so early on.
I cannot install the kick starter spindle/shaft assembly. It looks like it doesn`t match my gears, or the other way around. Dammit, I didn`t see that one coming. Upon looking up pictures of parts online, it looks like mine is Vietnamese or Chinese judging by the big engagement ratchet teeth, the gear is 22T. Also, I have noticed 21T in mid 90`s Honda bikes. My old Honda gearbox is 35T, and so is the new chinese one, but different diameter. I played around swapping gears and such, it would obviously work with the Honda gear but doesn`t engage properly with the primary shaft. Swell.
I even tried another gear from a different transmission I got from Aliexpress a while back, I could put 2 thrust bushing into another but the dog hub teeth/ nubbies didn`t match. Close...
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That was one worn out shaft!!
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And the clip is not in the same spot for the 2nd gear dog hub thingy, so you can really mix parts.

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Experimenting with a different gear and 2 bushings, dead end.
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Wasn`t bad... pity!

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Discussion Starter #58
Alright, I packed up and did some sentimental wrenching on small stuff.

Billet clutch basket assembly

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It loks like I can reuse my old covers, but what do you guys think about the oil cover? Only the bottom rocket shaft gets oil??
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This rocker clearly got worn out!

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Does anybody know what the hell this thing was for between the rocker shafts? I don`t have room to reuse it and its purpose escapes me...
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Good thing I kept playing around, I got this washer from DrATV, but it doesn`t match my old camshaft nor the new camshaft, which tells me the camgear I got from the old engine is also wrong. So there`s like 3 kind of camgears now??
I have noticed my chinese camshafts are the same, just different length. The TB camshaft I`m not sure what gear I need for it now...

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This plastic spacer came with the carburettor, looks like some kind of heat shield or phenolic (LOL) spacer. But then the intake manifold won`t match the head port job anymore, this spacer is a bit off and smaller...

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The carburettor also came with this bag of hardware that doesn`t make sense to me, different options I guess, but why some single unit for some lengths? I also found 2 studs with the head that I temporarily installed on the intake but they might be for the exhaust...
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That`s it for today, I gotta find a camgear and a correct starter spindle assembly now :cautious::cautious:
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Ok, I did a bit of research and found the correct cam sprocket. I wish it wasn`t such an ivestigation process to order partsfor these bikes, especially engine kits....

So the timing ratio is 2 to 1. The crank sprocket being 14T, I need a 28T. I took a secure leap of faith for the model and ordered it from T-Bolt. model TBW0861. There`s only 2 types with 28T from their website, 2 hole or 3 hole model. That was easy enough.

I got 2 different spark plugs too.

As for the timing chain length, I got an 84 link model from DrATV a while back.
 

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Ok, I did a bit of research and found the correct cam sprocket. I wish it wasn`t such an ivestigation process to order partsfor these bikes, especially engine kits....

So the timing ratio is 2 to 1. The crank sprocket being 14T, I need a 28T. I took a secure leap of faith for the model and ordered it from T-Bolt. model TBW0861. There`s only 2 types with 28T from their website, 2 hole or 3 hole model. That was easy enough.

I got 2 different spark plugs too.

As for the timing chain length, I got an 84 link model from DrATV a while back.
The cam sprocket you need is a two-hole 28T. It is a CRF50/70 style. You will also want to get the CRF50 style cam sprocket bolts (the ones with 8mm hex heads) and the matching cam cover with the little stopper arm on it. If you use the original screws with the 9mm hex heads, they will contact the center of the cam cover and may break loose, causing the cam sprocket to fall off (ask me how I know.) If you use the original cam cover without the stopper arm, the cover can spin and fall off.
 
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