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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The engine is a 115cc high compression all honda parts. The (6v points) tapered crank shaft/flywheel huxley key was not fit properly and sheared. Total loss on that. Got a new crank 12v and redid the engine. Tore down to bare bones and put back together. No extra parts and did a nice hone job to boot. I've got no paperwork for the electro stuff. Right now I just need to know how to wire to run it not worried about lights, horn, switches etc. Just stator, reg, rectifier and I can hot wire the ignition switch. Honda is ac generator, I'll not run a batt.
I don't want to get into how I got in this predicament I am only interested in getting this running as summers are short here and time is burning on both ends:(
The fact is you guys are all I have. I'll post pics of the stuff I have and so forth tomorrow. Anyone have a basic honda cdi schematic or can dummy one up on paper and shoot a pic? Any info you need post it up and I'll get what intel I can with the goodies in hand. Be cool, freezerburn

EDIT- RUNNING A BATT
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Everything in the motor is just like the 6v Z stuff. Timing marks on fly's and so fourth. O on cam sprocket lined on head mark as before. There's a little to chew on here but I'll have more in the morn. 'freeze
 

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If you're not running the lights, horn, etc., why do you want to tie in a reg/rec?

Get an '00-'14 XR/CRF50 wiring harness/CDI/ignition coil and use the wiring schematic below. All you will need from the stator you have is the black/red tracer wire and the blue/white or yellow tracer wire.

Also. looking at the top photo of the engine, it doesn't look as though you cut away the engine case for the pulse trigger, it has to be recessed for it to work properly.

View attachment XR50 wiring diagram-1.bmp
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I will study what you've put down.
I just want to get it running but I'll go with lights too further down the road. Can I use my 6v coil and go for a ride? What harness should I get if I want to go ahead and run lights too but remain batteryless?
I did recess the stator plate but left the case alone. But it is seated well and true. I'll be getting a stator cover-
Engine Stator Cover 125cc 140cc 150cc 160cc CRF50 KLX TTR GPX YX Pit Dirt Bike | eBay

Thank you for the reply. Let me know what all I need and I'll put together an order. I see that you are familiar with what I have and that is the first good news I've heard in quite somw time. Who sold me the motor made promises and then abandoned me with all the oars. Be cool, fb
 

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You can run the lights with a "separate harness", independent of the one needed to run the engine only. You would need to add a regulator and rectifier to maintain steady 12V DC power to the lights, and avoid the "idle dim" from happening. HOW to wire it into your existing lighting setup is far beyond my basic electrical skills, other than knowing you have to change over to 12V bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That bs will wrap around my bike three times.
i need a parts list that will work can any one put that together for me please? I would like to retain my switch and be batteryless. All help appreciated folks. If this were a 216 vintage Chevy I would be able to contribute plenty, lol. But with this I am at a total loss:( be cool, fb
 

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If you just want to get it running, it's not a huge problem. The CDI wiring will likely match this:

The wiring of the bike will be something like this:
Text Diagram Design Font Parallel

"Timing Trigger" will connect where the schematic says ignition pulse trigger. "Ignition Coil" connects to spark coil. "AC Ignition Power" to exciter coil. Ground and Kill switch are self explanatory. All the other parts you have is for powering the lights, charging the battery, etc. You don't need that. You can make this work, its not rocket science.
 
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