PlanetMinis Forums banner
101 - 119 of 119 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #102 ·
After a long wait I figured it was time for a winter update.
Finally got myself a set of 12 inch rims and 120/70/12 maxxis tires. I had the rims and hubs powdercoated a silver grey. I like them even if I do wish they where a closer to oem. Reminds me alot of the new honda monkeys.
I changed my carb from an ST90 carb to a 24mm Nibbi
Got rid of the ebay exhaust and installed a K0 styled CHP performance exhaust.
Installed an OEM grab handle
Cant wait for it to warm up so I can hear what the new exhaust sounds like.
With the ct70 almost finished its time to finish the ct90 and my PA50.
I should also mention I got everything registered through Vermont so its all good to go!


Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
Installed a headlight visor. I love it. Feel like it helps balance out the luggage rack. Now to make my chain guard fit.


Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
Did you get your chain guard to fit? If not, I have a video on my channel that I can share on how I trim them to fit these engines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Ever since I powerder coated my new rims my front brake hasnt been working. I bought new shoes. Made sure the arm was clocked correctly. Have a new cable installed now. No powder coat was put on the drum brake area. And i made sure to clean with brake clean before installing. Anything im missing? Brakes worked fine before powder coat.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,387 Posts
Could be the arc of the new shoes is not quite right with the drum. If it is just rubbing on one part of the shoes, it will not grab fully. If the difference is minimal, it will wear itself in with riding. There is also a method for centering the brake plate that may also help: loosen the axle nut, apply and hold the brake, then tighten the axle back up with the brake applied (easier with a helper, but I just use a cordless impact wrench and that does it fine.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Brake arm moves but it doesnt feel like it grabs while riding.
I never thought to center the brake hub. May have to give that try.
When I have the front wheel off the ground and press the brake it stops the wheel but while riding theres no stopping power.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,490 Posts
X2. New shoes will usually have to wear in...as long as the drum is within spec. Centering the hub sounds like really good advice too.
Then ride the brake a little here and there to help speed the process.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,387 Posts
The other thing you can do when changing brakes is to take some coarse emory cloth and scuff the glaze off the drums. You can also do it with a small drum sander attachment on a drill, but you have to be careful to keep it moving, so you don't gouge out one area. The best way is to do it on a lathe, if that is a possibility.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Alright so ive done so more testing and still have basically no brakes on the front. My drums look like they have barely making contact with the hub. Also the brakes move alot when I pull the lever. On my CT90 i can feel the front brake actuate. On my ct70 it doesnt have much feel to it. I verfied the shoes are moving. But they barely move. Any ideas?

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,387 Posts
If adjusting the cable tension does not help, I would try another set of brake shoes. Some of the aftermarket stuff out there is made for clone bikes, and does not fit original bikes as well as the original stuff. The TBParts brand brakes work well, IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #117 ·
Alright heres an update
Ordered EBC brakes from amazon with next day. They made the front better than before. But it still felt wimpy and didnt hold the bike. I added a spacer to the cable for the front brake up on the perch. I think the aftermarket oem style bars dont have the perch correct for the brake cable so it isnt putting enough tension on the front brake.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Onto a new issue.
Road the bike to work for the first time. 45 minute ride. For the last 5-10 minutes the bike would mis fire and not run right under load. I adjusted the valves and it didnt make it run any better. If I rev the bike in neutral I dont have any issues but when I am riding it doesnt run right. Possible cdi issue? Fuel related? Just weird it ran perfectly and then it magically didnt. Any ideas?

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,387 Posts
My first guess would be fuel related. Switching from your main petcock setting to reserve could be a culprit if that was something you did. The reserve setting draws gas from the bottom of the tank where any loose crud or water could get in your carb easily. Another possibility is the reserve passages could have some gunk in them, causing fuel starvation. If you didn't switch the petcock, it could still be fuel related. if your tank was ever left to dry up, the residue can be built up on the walls of the tank, and will slowly dissolve into the fuel, fouling it. I have had this happen more than once where the bike was running well after being revived from a long storage, and then left to sit for a few weeks. When you go to start it again, it is hard or impossible to start and run, and changing the fuel out fixes the problem. 30-40 minutes of riding would ensure the gas was being sloshed around the entire tank, and the warmth of the engine helps it dissolve even better. The other thing you mentioned is ignition. If you have a spare CDI box to switch out, that is the way to check it. Make sure the grounds for the CDI and harness are tight. I would also check the flywheel key if you are still trying to figure it out after trying the other things. Good luck.
 
101 - 119 of 119 Posts
Top