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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Trouble finding neutral? Isn't it 4 down, and 4 back up??
Yes but sometimes its just hard to get it back into neutral. Also my idea of a sleeper may have to be thrown out the window as far as cleaners are concerned. Stock one obviously doesnt flow enough and I found this out first hand. So i need to replace it with a pod filter I believe.


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If you pull the cone portion out of the snorkel lookin rubber inlet tube on the back side of the stocker, it will help a little...really not enough tho.
But if you're lookin for the full potential of that engine...might as well get the bigger carb/intake, and exhaust along with the pod filter and rear gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Already have the bigger carb on it. Exhuast could probably be upgraded. I will just throw a cone and rear gear it. See where that gets me.

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Heres a photo of how she sits. I have a UNI air filter ordered and 35 tooth rear sprocket (new chain aswell). This gearing should get me where I want (16/35) as far as top speed, crusing speed and acceleration. I have fixed the oil leaks. Also ordered a spark plug protecter just to finish the look.


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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Installed new seat cover and air filter. Still waiting on my new rear sprocket and chain from dratv. That being said with 16/38 gearing I had the bike up to 47mph. Cant wait for my 35 rear sprocket to decrease rpms and give a better cruising speed! Seat cover was a pain and is a little crooked but looks much better. Ive got a few other plans for the bike
12 inch rims with 120/70 maxxis tires
Headlight visor because I think its different
High flow stock K0 exhuast in black with chrome heatshield
Oil cooler when it comes in stock again
And some front shocks that have the oil dampening in them (trailbuddy has some that just replace the K0 style)

Besides that I love the power from this mower and can't wait to update when I get my new sprocket. Any questions feel free to ask!


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I'd shy away from the Trailbuddy fronts. From what I've seen, they only allow about 1.5 inches of travel. That is ridiculously short!
 

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1970 CT70, 2019 Super Cub 125, and five or six other basket cases
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If you’re looking for oil dampening then your best bet would really be the Piranah , or Tanaka Trading by extension, forks off of WeBike. Those seem to be the go too ones. No personal experience but I’m sure others will chime in. Alternatively dratv has the parts to convert to a ~90s style front end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Yea replacing the front suspension is currently last on the list. Mostly because my current ones work fine.

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Alright bad news. Was driving around the yard and when I went into 3rd the entire trans locked up. Wont shift down or up is just stuck in 3rd. Hopefully its maybe something with my shifter linkage? Any ideas? Something is going on with my clutch adjustment screw. The nut for it turns the screw so I have to the cover off regardless.

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1970 CT70, 2019 Super Cub 125, and five or six other basket cases
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See if you can shift it with the bolt on the shift drum from the left side of the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
I will dig into the problem tomorrow. What just occured to me is that the shifter isnt doing what its supposed to do. On the ct70 when I push the shifter down I should be able to rev the motor and not move correct? Well right now it doesnt do that. This would also explain why Nuetral has been a pain to shift into and why sometimes 3rd and 4th have been a pain to get into. Hmmm something isnt right.

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1970 CT70, 2019 Super Cub 125, and five or six other basket cases
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The spring and little ball plate could possibly be in backwards. I don’t know how that would affect the rest of the transmission, however.
 

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Agreed. Is there a common part that can improperly be installed that causes that assembly to not work properly?

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Yes.
The plate that's attached inside of the R side engine cover has to be properly indexed...peg fits into the hole on the cover...so the plate can't spin.
The removable arm on the shift shaft must point toward the center of the clutch and sit in the notch in the 3ball gadget.
Everything has to stay in place until the clutch is properly adjusted...by the book.

I'm thinkin, if you had the adjuster/preload, backed ALL the way off, then you stood the motor up...or rolled it over, etc...the 3ball plate, spring, oil thru...all of that stuff could move out of place, or maybe fall out, since the adjuster was too loose to hold them IN place.
 

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The other thing to check is that the three ball plate is turned to the right side so that the top hole is smooth around the edge, and that the bottom plate has the flange that fits inside the spring. I have found it useful to turn the adjuster full clockwise when installing the cover, so it will hit the clutch before the edges of the cover do. That way you can feel it drop down as it goes into the hole. Once it does, you can turn the adjuster counter-clockwise to seat the clutch cover. My bet is that the shift mechanism is where the problem lies, either in the shift arm or spring arm that is the detent for the shift star.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Thanks all for the info. I will pull the cover off tonight. Hopefully i dont need any parts!

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Can you loosen the adjuster nut and turn the adjuster stud clockwise to pull it into the side cover?
 

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...Or, possibly go the other way and see if it releases the cover so you can remove it
 
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