Planet Minis

shawnbassett26 · 06-27-2008, 07:14 PM

What rear shock is that?
~Shawn

FourDoor · 06-30-2008, 11:26 AM

It's a used KYB rear shock that came with an Ohlins decal on the reservoir.

FourDoor · 07-03-2008, 03:38 PM

Last update for the next week or so as I'll be out of town. I ran the electrolysis treatment on the tank for about 5 days on my tank. It did a fairly good job removing the rust. The dark rust spots turned black and it was pretty much clean on the inside. The only remnants of rust were the bubbled up sludge that dried up around the opening. I was planning on running the POR-15 stuff right away but got distracted that Saturday. And then Sunday I had thrown a party at my place so I had to set the tank aside.

Monday rolls around and I check the tank again and low and behold, FLASH RUST all over!!! Man that sucked. The flash rust was thick too. So disappointed, I let it sit another day before I decided to run the electrolysis treatment one more time. I ran it for about 24hours. It got rid of most of the rust but it was definitely not as clean as it was when I let it run for 5 days.

So a couple of things I learned about this whole electrolysis deal. First of all, if you hear any kind of sizzling sound it means that you grounded your little electrode/coat hanger to the tank.

Second, when it works, make sure you keep an eye out on your coat hanger to make sure it doesn't disintegrate or break off into the tank. I had this happen a couple of times where the end of the coat hanger just rotted off and fell in the tank. It was a pain trying to shake the tank with a magnet sticking through the hole to grab the broken pieces.

So yesterday, I decided that enough was enough and it was time to do the POR-15 tank treatment. Compared to the electrolysis, this was much more labor intensive with having to shake and move the cleaners around. While emptying out the solution into a bucket, the tank slipped and hit the side of the bucket leaving a nice lined dent on my tank that I now need to get fix.

After going through the different solutions, the next hardest part was getting the tank dry. I danced around jumping up and down trying to get water out of the tank through either the petcock or the gas cap hole. But there was still water slushing around in there. Even with a blowdryer, I knew it would take forever to evaporate all of that water out of the tank. So a little thinking made me stick a rag into the gas cap hole and to flip the tank over. This would soak up the water easier as the top of the gas tank was flat compared to the contoured bottom of the NSR tank. I did this a few times and the tank had all of the standing still water gone. I then pointed a blow dryer into the tank and kept on rotating and slushing around the little water that was left in there. I must have blow dryed that tank for at lest 45minutes just to make sure the tank was dry. At this point, the flash rust started to come back a little but not bad.

So the last step was adding the sealer. I was impressed at how well it coated the tank initially. It left a very nice and even surface. I drained out all of the excess and the tank now sits in the garage curing. I checked it this morning and was a little disappointed to see that smooth finish on the inside of the tank had rippled a little around the deep rust pits. It still looks good but definitely not as good looking as it was when it was wet.

I would have taken pics of the process but getting a decent shot at the inside of the tank was nearly impossible.

Summary: If I had to do it all over again, I probably would have bought a second tank that was not rusted.

It just took a lot of time. But this was a good learning experience and now know I can restore a tank if need be. If it was a rare ZB50 tank, then I definitely would have run the electrolysis/POR-15 stuff on it but since it’s an NSR50 tank, I probably should have jumped on the tank/body work set on eBay a week or so ago.

Code3Response · 07-04-2008, 03:13 PM

Sweet man - SIKDMAX From Barf. Ill be watchin this thread for more updates!

shw911 · 07-05-2008, 09:45 AM

Freat info. What's next on the 'to do' list?

FourDoor · 07-06-2008, 02:30 PM

Next on the to do list is getting some help welding up tabs for the NSF100 tail on the frame. But that won't happen until next week since I'm currently out of town.

Once the tabs are done, the frame and swingarm gets sent to the powdercoater.

Wurms · 07-06-2008, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FourDoor

I could probably clean, sand, sand even more, and polish the original master cylinder i have but as you can see, there are no aftermarket levers that fit the stock nsr master/perch perfectly. I'm looking to make the hand controls look like they came matched as opposed to something that looks like it was half put together.

You could ask Brad or Dan about the TTS levers. They are not break-away but they look damn nice, they fit perfectly, and they come with a (conveniently removable) brake switch tab. That's what I'll be running on my oem NSR master, which will be mated to a Brembo caliper through Spiegler lines. Tasty combo imo.
MiniParts 832.jpg

TTSNSR50LeverSilver.jpg

FourDoor · 07-13-2008, 09:44 PM

Thanks for the info Wurms. But I think I may have some other options I may persue right now in regards to the handle bars.

So I just got home and I had a few parts that I had ordered waiting for me. It's always nice to come home to a nice present, or 2, or many.

Anyways, here is the first one. It's the Airtech NSF100 tail. I test fitted it first to see exactly how much fabrication needed to be done to get it to fit. As you can see I have a few issues I need to resolve here:

1. Mounting tabs. This will be the easy part. I have someone who will be able to fab me up some mounting tabs to get this tail to mount properly. We'll need to make mounts for the middle of the seat and the 2 lower points near the tank.

2. The protruding sections of the frame where the rear shock reservoir mounted onto sticks out like a sore thumb. This will have to be cut on both sides.

3. The stock taillights now stick out severely since the NSF tail points upwards. I'm gonna have to definitely going to need to find a new set of tail lights and signal lights for this project. And that section where the tail light mounts may also need to be cut but the stock rear fender and underliner for the tail section utilizes it all up so I'm gonna have to get really creative there.

FourDoor · 07-13-2008, 09:46 PM

And here are the pics of the stock tail lights mocked up. Doesn't look pretty at all...

FourDoor · 07-13-2008, 09:51 PM

So what do you guys think? Should I hack off the rest of the back subframe to make it fit the tail or leave it there sticking out?

Here is a pic of Josh Serne's NSR50 with the NSF100 body work and it looks like his dad definitely did a lot of chopping to make that tail look good on there:

If I do, I guess I can fab up something like this as my local Cycle Gear sells that clear tail light here:

SUZUKIRM12594 · 07-13-2008, 09:53 PM

OOOOO (Jaw dropping and drooling) I've always been a bike fan of those street legal NSR smokers.

FourDoor · 07-14-2008, 01:28 AM

OK I couldn't help it. I played with the tail some more. So a couple more things I found out about the NSF100 tail.

1. I'm kinda screwed. The stock JDM NSR motor I have has a battery that sits in the tail right now for the electricals. I tried to take a pic with the rear splash guard in place to show where it would go. In short, in it's current position, it would be sticking out as well with the stock tail lights for everyone to see. Now this means if I cut off the remainder of the back of the subframe, I lose the stock mounting point for the battery. And this means I would also need to fab up a custom mount just for the battery.

2. The NSF100 tail is a bitch to get on and off right now even after I hacked off the unneeded shock reservoir mounts. This will pose a problem since I will need to be able to remove the tail easily enough so that I can pour in the 2-stroke oil since this current motor is oil injected. I'm thinking the only way to fix this is to trim off part of the underside of the NSF100 tail so it doesn't hit/get caught the back of the subframe. This way I can hopefully just lift the tail straight up to remove it since right now I have to play a jigsaw/jenga type of game with the tail to get it in there.

The dilemma is that I want to convert over to a 4-stroke motor over the winter. With that, I should be able to get rid of the stock NSR battery. So my options right now are:

A. Cut the rest of the back of the subframe now and fab up some new lights and a mounting point for the rear battery. This will require more work and push out the date as to when I can ride this 50 on the street for summer.

B. I can leave the stock tail light, fender liner, and battery as is for now. It would look pretty ugly in the back but at least I would be able to ride the bike on the street sooner. The only downside to this is that the frame will be powdercoated this month but will need to get chopped down again when I decided to change the tail lights and motor. It would just suck having to chop up a nicely powdercoated frame.

I was ok with chopping off the rear and using some new tail lights but making a mount to hold the current battery is putting a little damper into things. Is there any way I can use an even smaller battery or get rid of the battery all together but still retain the 12volts needed to run the headlights and signal lights?

FourDoor · 07-14-2008, 01:31 AM

And here is a pic of what mounts needs to be fabbed up for the NSF100 tail to fit. Man that NSF100 subframe looks way different than the NSR50s:

Manimal · 07-14-2008, 06:17 AM

Being that you plan to install a 4-stroker during the off season, why not wait to install the NSF stuff then?

As for your sub-frame.....
I would cut your sub-frame short just enough to not look out of place.

As for your battery.....
cut the tower of the sub-frame down a bit and fab a battery tray at the top of it for the battery. Fab in the tray in such a way where the battery tucks under the highest point of the tail, and out of site.

Anyhow, for now, keep it a 50 so you're able to ride it while it's the season. Tear it down in the off season

shw911 · 07-14-2008, 07:14 AM

Instead of cutting it off, why not notch the rear subframe behind the original seat mount and reweld it at an upward angle much like the NSF100 subframe.
(The other option is bending it upwards)
Then the rearmost crossmember on the subframe can be used (or weld another) to hang the tail light and/or exhaust.

shawnbassett26 · 07-14-2008, 07:39 AM

Theres plenty of places to put the bat. You can even make a mount under the tank (thats what i would do). If your going to do a 4 stroke swap and you put the bat under the tail you will have to move it again (asuming you would run an undertail exhaust). Hack the subframe off and get custom with it. Looks good, your on the right path.
~Shawn

FourDoor · 07-14-2008, 12:39 PM

Well some much needed sleep hopefully made me think a little bit straighter today.

Darren, this will be the only NSF piece going on now, that plus I need to get the frame sent out to powdercoat means that I need to get the mounting tabs for the tail done before I can do anything else. I figured if I’m gonna do that now, I may as well cut and grind the subframe where needed.

shw911: I'm thinking bending the rear subframe up will be more work than needed. I do plan on going with a rear undertail exhaust in the future like Shawn had suggested though. The rear most part of the subframe that has the crossmember/mounting point for the tail light unfortunately is going to be too wide to fit inside the rear of the NSF tail. If I were to bend the current tail, it would not only need to be bent upward but inward as well to compensate for the pointed rear section of the tail.

Looking at the tail again, it looks like that little tower (which was used as part of the locking mechanism for the pre 95 street NSRs) can also double as the next future undertail exhaust mount. This would be ideal as I won’t have to make any other modifications to the frame aside from just cutting the rear subframe at that section.

The more I think about it, the more I know I have to get this all done now as opposed to later. I’ll check out that little tower on the back of the subframe again when I get home to see if it will be suited for mounting an undertail exhaust in the future. If not, I will just have to hack that off as well. The only problem will be that if I hack that off, there will be no supporting cross braces left on the subframe and I will end up doing something like shw911 suggested.

If/when I do end up hacking the rear subframe off, I wouldn’t mind just making a temporary mount for the battery in the rear tail even if it can be seen as I know it would be temporary. I think I can just cut up some aluminum as a base and then zip tie them up to the rear subframe as deep as I can have the battery go.

shawnbassett26 · 07-14-2008, 12:48 PM

Sounds like you have a plan now, Just make sure you do ALL of your modifications to you frame before you go to powder coating, i went back and had to do more mods for the bodywork on the tail also. Because im super anal, in the winter ill have to back and repowder coat the frame again...... Keep up the great work!
~Shawn

FourDoor · 07-14-2008, 12:56 PM

Well it's a make shift plan for now. Hopefully it can be executed. I wish I had a spare exhaust I could mock up temporarily for now too to see how it would fit.

The only other piece that has me worried about the powedercoat getting damaged is when the new motor goes in. I need to talk to miniman and see how his mounting bracket stuff works exactly but hopefully it will be more of a bolt up procedure than a welding procedure when it comes time for the new motor.

shawnbassett26 · 07-14-2008, 01:04 PM

I think Jun @ j-traiding has NSR50 to NSF100 motor mounts kit and stock NSF100 exhaust for sale.
Look em up. If you need his # PM me, he also have other JDM parts for sale.
~Shawn

06-27-2008, 07:14 PM	#41 (permalink)
shawnbassett26 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Jacksonville FL Posts: 471	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project What rear shock is that? ~Shawn

06-30-2008, 11:26 AM	#42 (permalink)
FourDoor 1st Gear Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 149	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project It's a used KYB rear shock that came with an Ohlins decal on the reservoir.

07-03-2008, 03:38 PM	#43 (permalink)
FourDoor 1st Gear Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 149	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project Last update for the next week or so as I'll be out of town. I ran the electrolysis treatment on the tank for about 5 days on my tank. It did a fairly good job removing the rust. The dark rust spots turned black and it was pretty much clean on the inside. The only remnants of rust were the bubbled up sludge that dried up around the opening. I was planning on running the POR-15 stuff right away but got distracted that Saturday. And then Sunday I had thrown a party at my place so I had to set the tank aside. Monday rolls around and I check the tank again and low and behold, FLASH RUST all over!!! Man that sucked. The flash rust was thick too. So disappointed, I let it sit another day before I decided to run the electrolysis treatment one more time. I ran it for about 24hours. It got rid of most of the rust but it was definitely not as clean as it was when I let it run for 5 days. So a couple of things I learned about this whole electrolysis deal. First of all, if you hear any kind of sizzling sound it means that you grounded your little electrode/coat hanger to the tank. Second, when it works, make sure you keep an eye out on your coat hanger to make sure it doesn't disintegrate or break off into the tank. I had this happen a couple of times where the end of the coat hanger just rotted off and fell in the tank. It was a pain trying to shake the tank with a magnet sticking through the hole to grab the broken pieces. So yesterday, I decided that enough was enough and it was time to do the POR-15 tank treatment. Compared to the electrolysis, this was much more labor intensive with having to shake and move the cleaners around. While emptying out the solution into a bucket, the tank slipped and hit the side of the bucket leaving a nice lined dent on my tank that I now need to get fix. After going through the different solutions, the next hardest part was getting the tank dry. I danced around jumping up and down trying to get water out of the tank through either the petcock or the gas cap hole. But there was still water slushing around in there. Even with a blowdryer, I knew it would take forever to evaporate all of that water out of the tank. So a little thinking made me stick a rag into the gas cap hole and to flip the tank over. This would soak up the water easier as the top of the gas tank was flat compared to the contoured bottom of the NSR tank. I did this a few times and the tank had all of the standing still water gone. I then pointed a blow dryer into the tank and kept on rotating and slushing around the little water that was left in there. I must have blow dryed that tank for at lest 45minutes just to make sure the tank was dry. At this point, the flash rust started to come back a little but not bad. So the last step was adding the sealer. I was impressed at how well it coated the tank initially. It left a very nice and even surface. I drained out all of the excess and the tank now sits in the garage curing. I checked it this morning and was a little disappointed to see that smooth finish on the inside of the tank had rippled a little around the deep rust pits. It still looks good but definitely not as good looking as it was when it was wet. I would have taken pics of the process but getting a decent shot at the inside of the tank was nearly impossible. Summary: If I had to do it all over again, I probably would have bought a second tank that was not rusted. It just took a lot of time. But this was a good learning experience and now know I can restore a tank if need be. If it was a rare ZB50 tank, then I definitely would have run the electrolysis/POR-15 stuff on it but since it’s an NSR50 tank, I probably should have jumped on the tank/body work set on eBay a week or so ago.

07-04-2008, 03:13 PM	#44 (permalink)
Code3Response 2nd Gear Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: San Luis Obispo, CA Posts: 311	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project Sweet man - SIKDMAX From Barf. Ill be watchin this thread for more updates!

07-05-2008, 09:45 AM	#45 (permalink)
shw911 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 942	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project Freat info. What's next on the 'to do' list?

07-06-2008, 02:30 PM	#46 (permalink)
FourDoor 1st Gear Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 149	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project Next on the to do list is getting some help welding up tabs for the NSF100 tail on the frame. But that won't happen until next week since I'm currently out of town. Once the tabs are done, the frame and swingarm gets sent to the powdercoater.

07-13-2008, 09:53 PM	#51 (permalink)
SUZUKIRM12594 3rd Gear Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Glendale California Posts: 1,187	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project OOOOO (Jaw dropping and drooling) I've always been a bike fan of those street legal NSR smokers.

07-14-2008, 06:17 AM	#54 (permalink)
Manimal PM Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Milpitas, CA Posts: 91	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project Being that you plan to install a 4-stroker during the off season, why not wait to install the NSF stuff then? As for your sub-frame..... I would cut your sub-frame short just enough to not look out of place. As for your battery..... cut the tower of the sub-frame down a bit and fab a battery tray at the top of it for the battery. Fab in the tray in such a way where the battery tucks under the highest point of the tail, and out of site. Anyhow, for now, keep it a 50 so you're able to ride it while it's the season. Tear it down in the off season

07-14-2008, 07:14 AM	#55 (permalink)
shw911 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 942	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project Instead of cutting it off, why not notch the rear subframe behind the original seat mount and reweld it at an upward angle much like the NSF100 subframe. (The other option is bending it upwards) Then the rearmost crossmember on the subframe can be used (or weld another) to hang the tail light and/or exhaust.

07-14-2008, 07:39 AM	#56 (permalink)
shawnbassett26 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Jacksonville FL Posts: 471	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project Theres plenty of places to put the bat. You can even make a mount under the tank (thats what i would do). If your going to do a 4 stroke swap and you put the bat under the tail you will have to move it again (asuming you would run an undertail exhaust). Hack the subframe off and get custom with it. Looks good, your on the right path. ~Shawn

07-14-2008, 12:39 PM	#57 (permalink)
FourDoor 1st Gear Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 149	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project Well some much needed sleep hopefully made me think a little bit straighter today. Darren, this will be the only NSF piece going on now, that plus I need to get the frame sent out to powdercoat means that I need to get the mounting tabs for the tail done before I can do anything else. I figured if I’m gonna do that now, I may as well cut and grind the subframe where needed. shw911: I'm thinking bending the rear subframe up will be more work than needed. I do plan on going with a rear undertail exhaust in the future like Shawn had suggested though. The rear most part of the subframe that has the crossmember/mounting point for the tail light unfortunately is going to be too wide to fit inside the rear of the NSF tail. If I were to bend the current tail, it would not only need to be bent upward but inward as well to compensate for the pointed rear section of the tail. Looking at the tail again, it looks like that little tower (which was used as part of the locking mechanism for the pre 95 street NSRs) can also double as the next future undertail exhaust mount. This would be ideal as I won’t have to make any other modifications to the frame aside from just cutting the rear subframe at that section. The more I think about it, the more I know I have to get this all done now as opposed to later. I’ll check out that little tower on the back of the subframe again when I get home to see if it will be suited for mounting an undertail exhaust in the future. If not, I will just have to hack that off as well. The only problem will be that if I hack that off, there will be no supporting cross braces left on the subframe and I will end up doing something like shw911 suggested. If/when I do end up hacking the rear subframe off, I wouldn’t mind just making a temporary mount for the battery in the rear tail even if it can be seen as I know it would be temporary. I think I can just cut up some aluminum as a base and then zip tie them up to the rear subframe as deep as I can have the battery go.

07-14-2008, 12:48 PM	#58 (permalink)
shawnbassett26 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Jacksonville FL Posts: 471	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project Sounds like you have a plan now, Just make sure you do ALL of your modifications to you frame before you go to powder coating, i went back and had to do more mods for the bodywork on the tail also. Because im super anal, in the winter ill have to back and repowder coat the frame again...... Keep up the great work! ~Shawn

07-14-2008, 12:56 PM	#59 (permalink)
FourDoor 1st Gear Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 149	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project Well it's a make shift plan for now. Hopefully it can be executed. I wish I had a spare exhaust I could mock up temporarily for now too to see how it would fit. The only other piece that has me worried about the powedercoat getting damaged is when the new motor goes in. I need to talk to miniman and see how his mounting bracket stuff works exactly but hopefully it will be more of a bolt up procedure than a welding procedure when it comes time for the new motor.

07-14-2008, 01:04 PM	#60 (permalink)
shawnbassett26 2nd Gear Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Jacksonville FL Posts: 471	Re: Street Plated NSR50 Project I think Jun @ j-traiding has NSR50 to NSF100 motor mounts kit and stock NSF100 exhaust for sale. Look em up. If you need his # PM me, he also have other JDM parts for sale. ~Shawn

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