Planet Minis

FourDoor

Well I finally had time to work on the bike today. Thanks to Darren I was able to lift up the front end and see what was going on. I loosened the top and lower triple, turned the upper fork tube about 180degrees and low and behold, the gap is gone at the axle. I test out the forks and they are not binding and feel pretty good compressing them right now.

I was reassured the the upper fork tube is straight so I am assuming that the bend is somewhere in the lower then which would be worse case scenario, I need to buy a whole new lower fork leg. There is a nice little gash on the left lower fork leg from the accident.

If the bike rides straight and feels good this way when I do the test ride, what are the cons with running this setup that has a slight bend? Or are the NSR fork legs tapered out like this intentionally?

Pierce

Well by turning the upper and having the gap close doesn't mean that the bottom is bent it means the top is bent still. If I were you I would just order some of the aftermarket knock off forks and call it a day.

Manimal

"I loosened the top and lower triple, turned the upper fork tube about 180 degrees and low and behold, the gap is gone at the axle."

what happens when you continue to turn it to 360, does the gap return?
If so, your fork leg is bent, my friend. As you know, the tube should stay true 360 of rotation.

Furthermore, if there is ever a gap between the wheel hub and the fork, then you tighten the axle to snug the wheel between the forks, that WILL cause stiction (bind the tubes), which is very dangerous! And as you found, will not allow the forks to function as they should (either compress and or rebound).

Forks should be within/near their natural state, whether with or without a side load (tightened axle). Therefore, If needed, add a spacer(s) to fill the gap.

FourDoor

If I turn the upper fork tube 180 the gap dissapears. If I continue to turn it another 180 to the full 360, the gap returns. So are you saying the upper is bent or the lower as I had suspected? Or could it be a combination of both?

*SIGH* I guess I'll go back to the shop after my vacation to see if it can be straightened.

Pierce, links/more info on the aftermarket forks?

Z

Your 2004 NSR50 forks are longer then any of the other aftermarket forks available in the marketplace. I'd replace with OEM Honda parts rather then go with aftermarket NSR50 fork legs that are going to be too short for your application.

FourDoor

Z, what about the pre-95 forks since this is going on the 1992 NSR?

Pierce

Then the aftermarket ones will fit. G-Craft has them along with takegawa and daytona, I think. Z can confirm on that one.

Z

Then you can go aftermarket without issue if you are running the pre 1995 NSR50 forks.

G-crafts are 2004 HRC units. Daytona doesn't make a 30mm fork leg for the NSR50. They make a 31mm and they are not that great and overpriced compared to other offerings. Takegawa forks are also grossly overpriced and most are repackaged from other OEM apps.

Pierce

See I said you could confirm.

FourDoor

So GCraft and Daytonas do not fit.

The Takagawas don't sound like they are worth the $.

I guess if I can't get this repaired, I'll be looking for a used setup then in the future.

Manimal

Romeo,

I am no expert, however, common sense of mechanics is that the fork tube should rotate 360 with no real visable deviation (out of round, warp or bow).

Contact Ray and tell him what your fork tube/leg is doing, as we had instructed you. He's the suspension pro and should be able to tell you which part of the fork may be causing the issue (upper tube or lower fork). Furthermore letting you know what your options are. Get some input from him before you start shelling out more money out of your pocket.