Planet Minis

hooptytank

I decided to go with 6AN, got the cooler tapped, drilled and tapped the head plate. Once the fittings are bolted to the head plate, the stock cam oil channel will be blocked off and I'll cut a new channel from the cooler inlet to feed the cam.

Does the upper hole in the head need to be blocked off, or leave it open?





Here are 3 ways I'm thinking about running the hoses. Which way is better?

#1 straight across. This way I think oil drain back will be a problem and the cooler will have to fill every time the engine starts before the top end gets lubed.





#2 loop the outlet hose from the head up so it's level or higher than the return to trap most of the oil in the cooler with the engine off. The hose would have to loop over the return and enter the cooler from the clutch cover side



#3 similar to above routing, but using a 45* fitting on the outlet and 45* fittings on the hose ends for cleaner routing of the hoses.



I'll fab the bracket once I figure out the hose layout. If I'm doing something wrong, somebody let me know now. Does the Lifan oil pump have enough volume to move the oil in this fashion?

hooptytank

Engine people, can an expert please chime in and tell me wether or not I'm wasting time with worrying about oil drainback with the engine off?? I'm running hoses wednesday nite and want some feedback.

Are the fittings in the right place??

Gracias!

hooptytank

Got the oil cooler mounted up and changed sprockets to 17/35 from 14/39. It's a big jump and hope the 141 can pull my fat ass around with those gears! I abandoned the ATC cooler and ended up using a TB oil cooler kit I got with another engine purchase, and mounted the cooler under the headlight using the horn mounting tab.

But the damn brake light quit working now from either switch, and the bulb looks ok. I might relocate the horn under the seat as well as the battery tomorrow using a CT70 box, so I'll dig around in the harness to see what is up.

1TrikZB

With that motor and the right exhaust, you should be able to use the 17/35 or a 15/35. I switch between a 17/31 and 15/31. One of my friends is 320lbs, and he was cruizing with the 15/31 setup on my ZB. And I was cringing, but he is a very good friend. If your size is really a factor, you should consider an upgrade on the rear shock. By relocating the battery, you will pretty much commit yourself to installing a down swept exhaust, which is a good thing for a restomod IMO.

You probably pulled a wire when installing the oil cooler. You'll have that fixed in no time. Post up a pick of the oil cooler. Sounds like a nice setup.

peace,
bobbyV

hooptytank

I got a 17/35 and it runs great, cruises 45 at 6700 rpm. I'll be getting a slightly larger tire in the future or I'll bump the rear to a 31 and see how it does.

I weigh 185, I was just stating I can stand to loose a few pounds nonetheless, suspension mods are next, a better rear shock and rebuild the forks with emulators.

I realized that the battery relocation won't work with the stock exhaust, which I'm still running. I know it's chocking the the engine like Ike did Tina, but I'm waiting for user buellboy to sell me his V8 for 100 bucks. otherwise I have a pitster x4r header and can that i'll chop and weld up in a downswept style.

The brake light problem wasn't wiring at all. actually the brake light was on all the time, that's why I thought it didn't work. turned out that the rear switch spring is touching the larger engine and engaging the switch all the time. all I had to do was straighten the hook out and bend it 1/4" lower. problem fixed.

Click on any of these to enlarge them:

The dog's got a hard on for the ZB. haha

supernes550

cooler looks better there than your previous spot

hooptytank

yeah, better airflow and safer

hooptytank

I renamed the thread to indicate it's purpose. Here are some updates, made an exhaust, relocated the battery under the tank and moved the horn.

I used a pitster X4R pipe that I acquired when I bought a used engine, same one the cooler came from. had to chop and rotate the pipe, fill in the missing gap, then make a mounting bracket. Came out surprisingly good, and sounds mean!!













I had to stash the battery for aesthetic, and weight distribution reasons.



I used the horn mount for the oil cooler, but also eliminated the front fender. I used one of the fender mounting nuts for the horn. Came out nice and it's out of sight. Next step is to get an air horn that plays Dixie!!

hooptytank

some pics of my hybrid Kitaco/TB intake. Didn't want to wait for an adapter or a straight back intake, so a hacksaw, TIG welder, JBweld and some port work was in order.

I was going to just cut and rotate the TB intake but the radius was too sharp for my liking so I used about an inch of a Kitaco long runner intake to get the runner shape I was looking for. I then blended the 2 together with a grinding bit so the inside is seamless and has a smooth taper to the port

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EddieNewYork

Nice work dude!

shw911

Wow. Awesome fabrication work. Next you should extend and brace the swingarm.

bigluelok

wow hoopty i didnt know this thread existed great looking bike

hooptytank

OK here are some updates, NSR clipons and trailtech Vapor installed.

To get the clipons to mount, the stock blinker brackets had to come off, as well as the mounting tab for the headlight bracket that goes under the bar clamps. I had to grind the edge around the clip-on clamping bolt sleeve a bit to clear the tank at full lock.

I made a bracket for the vapor and welded that to the top tree. I got the KTM water cooled version (702) with the liquid temp sensor, so I drilled and tapped the clutch case for the sensor, hooked the tach pickup to the BLK/YEL wire on the coil and hooked up the battery. I still need to finalize the speedo pickup install and I'll have some pics of that later.

The ignition switch fit pefectly in the headlight tab. I had to put 2 dimples in the tab so the switch would be keyed in place and not rotate.

I'm waiting for some light bulb bases to arrive which will house the turn signal and N light. Those fit perfectly in the holes left by the bar clamps. I don't need the high beam indicator since i have the high beam on all the time and don't need a bulb staring me in the face. I'll post more pics when its all done.

shw911

Vlad, that Vapor looks pretty awesome. The bike is coming together nicely. How'd the bike handle in the canyons now with clipons?

hooptytank

Handles much better with the weight shifted forward and down, feels planted even with that 20 year old tire on the front. Waiting for new rubber to arrive any day.

It is a bit cramped now when going slow, but I have rearsets going on next, which should get the knees away from the elbows. Comfort wise it isn't bad, even after the long ride. I need to rotate the brake and clutch levers down 'cause now i have to reach up for them

EddieNewYork

That's awsome Vlad! You got me thinking of getting a vapor now, lol. What kind of rearsets are you getting?

hooptytank

see 2nd to last pic, off an R1. I need to see if I can make them work

hooptytank

installed turn and neutral indicator lights. the harness i got with the lights actually has 3 bulbs, one was for high beam but since i ride with it on high, i didn't care for the constant reminder. plus i ran out of room. the light harness and light lens are from a newer VTX or some other honda cruiser bike. for some finishing touch bling i got a cool 3D relief honda wing that comes standard on most big bikes top tree.







Below is a pic of where i dimpled the head light tab to keep the ignition switch from rotating. I'm really surprised it hasn't popped out yet. that hole was made for that switch!



a pic of most of the vapor bracket i fabbed up. used 1/8" hot rolled plate, carved up to proper dimensions and added some EPT foam around the edges to protect the vapors wires. right at the end i put a 90 degree bend in it and welded it to the underside of the top tree.



I'm still working on the speedo pickup. I plan on using the stock speedo cable mounting location for the pickup, and using the stock drive mechanism to mount the magnet on...

after that the R1 rearsets. I'm going to have to get creative with this one, especially with the brake and shifter linkages but it can be done. details to follow....

Zento

You didn't plugg your oil cooler in the right place. Lifan engines (over 125cc) need oil coolers to be plugged to the down engine with bonjos. If you run that engine without the oil cooler in the right place, you will ruin it. The oil feed plate plugged to the camshaft is unecessary here.
Here's how it should be set on a lifan (138, 140 and so on) :

hooptytank

You're right! BUT, this 141 started as a 120, so it doesn't have that full flow style oiling system =(

It's seen about 500 street miles so far and still running strong. Knock on wood.